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Redrock and vicinity
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Unsorted Routes:

Toe Jams 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: rdlennon on Oct 20, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: "Toe Jams" heads up the obvious wide crack. A var...

Description 

Toe Jams climbs a toe-width crack on the far right end of the main wall. From the bottom, scramble up and right over blocks to the base of the crack. Belay from here or the bottom, bottom recommended. Hand and fist jam with ease up the low-angle crack until it becomes shallow and face holds appear. Anchor at trees.

This crack is a wonderful introduction to jamming for beginners. The crack itself isn't long or sustained, but offers quite a few moves of compulsory hand- and toe- jamming.


Location 

This is on the far right side of the main Red Rock face. It is a hand crack hidden by trees, with blocks at the base.


Protection 

Light rack of gear to 3". Hexes and cams. Belay at trees or bolted anchors. A toprope can easily be rigged by walking up the path next to the route and anchoring the trees.



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By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 16, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Two twos and two threes seem good on the lower half and a 0.5 for the crux. Nice light rack for a very fun lead.

By James Chase
Apr 7, 2013

Good route to practice hand and toe jamming as they say.

By chris21
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

There are bolted anchors at the top of this. No need to use trees for a top rope anchor just put quickdraws on the bolts.

By J Meagher
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Awesome splitter with perfect foot jams.