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Short Wall - Right Side
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Toe Jam Express 
Up to Heaven 

Toe Jam Express 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
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Page Views: 1,332
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 1, 2002
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Ten year old Emil, on Toe Jam Express.

Description 

This route is the next obvious crack right of Double Crack (approximately fifteen feet). I recall it as a nice (wide?) jamcrack. No surprises.


Protection 

Toprope, solo, or lead with a handful of cams.



Photos of Toe Jam Express Slideshow Add Photo
My then ten year old son, beginning Toe Jam Express. A Spring 1985 ascent.
My then ten year old son, beginning Toe Jam Expres...
"Toe Jam Express". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Toe Jam Express".
Photo by Blitzo.
Neale looking good on his first lead
Neale looking good on his first lead
Toe Jam Express
Toe Jam Express
Great toe jam lesson.
Great toe jam lesson.
Dave soloing "Toe Jam Express". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Dave soloing "Toe Jam Express".
Photo by Blitzo.
Toe Jam Express is the center crack below the climber.
Toe Jam Express is the center crack below the clim...
Comments on Toe Jam Express Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Fun easy solo!

By Mike Mu.
Apr 18, 2007

it is a wide jamcrack. but very straightforward and fun

By Brandontyrrell
Dec 12, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

due to high traffic, the routes can be a little slick at the bottom.

By Rodger Raubach
Oct 14, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

Nice easy intro to climbing wider cracks--especially good for beginners. I'd say that the old Wolfe guidebook of F5 was correct, and I'd call it 5.4, especially if led. More challenging and interesting than B-2 and B-3 on Trashcan rock.

By Josh Cameron
Jul 17, 2011

For a crack there wasn't much crack climbing. I don't think I've ever groveled so much on a 5.3. I must've missed something!

By Dave Kos
Nov 7, 2011

Set this up for my kids this weekend. There's a crux section about 8 feet up that's definitively harder than 5.3. This one may be frustrating for small children.

By Justin Peacock
From: Denver, co
Jan 8, 2012

Fun for a quick route but nothing magical. The first 1/3 of the route protects with hand size cams, but the rest needs big cams. Saw a beginning leader get stuck mid route when he realized he had no pro.