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Todra Gorge

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Dalle Hollandai 
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Pilier Du Couchant 
Plage Mansour  

Todra Gorge Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 850'
Location: 31.5869, -5.5911 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,557
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mary303 on Jan 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: my todra peeps!!!... Hassan, the author of the gui...

Description 

Editorial Note: This text is a compilation of two submissions.

Submitted by Mary303 on Nov 19, 2008:
Huge gorge, so you can find sun or shade at any time of the day. During our visit (late Oct-early Nov) it was sunny and warm everyday, but once the sun goes away, break out the layers.

The rock is pocketed limestone. Beautiful, sticky, and VERY sharp in most places. Most routes are clean and high quality.

Not at all crowded with climbers, but the gorge is a huge tourist attraction. However, if you are out climbing all day, you won't even notice :)

Lonely Planet and other sites said not to stay at Hotel Yasmina, but we found it to be the best in the gorge. Hot showers, large, clean rooms, great location, and great staff (they love to play drums for you at night). They offer camping on the roof. There are 4 other hotels (only 1 other right in the gorge). The 3 at the entrance were all smaller, not as clean and right in the middle of tourist traffic. Even Hassan (the local guide and guide book author) says not to stay at the Hotel Mansour.

Find Hassan Mouhajir to buy his homemade guidebook. He sells it for 250 dirhams (right now that is about $30 US). The book and guiding are his livelihood, so please do not make copies and give to friends or post topos on the internet.

  • *BEWARE OF GOATS ON TOP OF THE CLIFFS!
The goats will knock of rocks (some can be very large) and the herders will throw rocks at the goats, which will fall over the edge! Neither will yell "Rock!"

Submitted by Forestvonsinkafinger on Jan 26, 2009:
ÏÑÉ ÌæÑÌ A few klicks northwest of Tinerhir, the Gorges du Todre cuts through the High Atlas creating a towering slot canyon with hundreds of routes of all grades and qualities. There are several Herberge (hostels) and hotels to suit your pocketbook. I suggest the eastern of the two that are actually in the gorge for price, quality, and style (of course). If you are there on holiday, there will likely be Europeans of varied nationalities there to climb that will have nice beta. There are at least nine areas in the gorge, and many more in the proximity.

You may choose to bring a thick trad-rack in spite of the grip of sport routes. Many of the routes are multi-pitch and there is a fair amount of bouldering to be had in the western gully. Occasionally you may find a cheap photocopied rough-guidebook. Friendly local Berber guides at Hotel Jasmina that will take you out for a fair price if you are sans-gear. To dirtbag, fill up on Bsara and Harrara (5dh) accompanied by Morrocan crepes (3dh) whenever possible.

Getting There 

Submitted by Mary303 on Nov 19, 2008:
You can fly into Rabat, Casablanca, or even Ourzazate.
From Rabat and Casablanca, you should take the train to Marrakesh.
From Marrakesh (8 hours) and Ourzazate (3 hours), you will have to take a bus to Tinehir. Going through the Atlas Mountains is very windy(they hand out barf bags, which many people actually use). I think Ourzazate bypasses the craziness, but you'll have to pay the extra for the small flight there.
From Tinehir, you will have to get a grand taxi into the gorge.

  • The only liquor store in the area is in Tinehir, so try to get it before you go into the gorge. This may be difficult as the grand taxis try to fill up the car completely, so you won't be the only ones in the taxi. It's really not that difficult to make an evening run after climbing, but be ready to haggle the price and stick to your guns (normal fare should be 7 dirhams each way). Prices seem to go up the later you try to leave or the more you look like a tourist!

Submitted by Forestvonsinkafinger on Jan 26, 2009:
From Marrakech take the N9 toward Oarzazate (the Hollywood of the Sahara) where you may choose to spend the night, there are many cheap hotels near the main square and often cultural festivities. From Oarzazate (with a full tank of gas and food!!), take the N10 North through no-man's-land to Tinerhir. Once in Tinerhir, on the north end of town there is a road number 6902 that goes west and a sign that says "Gorges du Todre." Take this to Za. Sidi-Abdilali where you will see the gorge.

From Azrou, take the N13 south (with food and a full tank!) to its junction with the N10 in Rachidia. There is a nice roadside stand where one may get a nice cold glass of fresh squeezed orange juice for 10 Dirham (ahh). Take the N10 south to Tinerhir and follow above directions.

Climbing Season

For the Africa area.

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',13],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Todra Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Todra Gorge:
Albert   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Pilier Du Couchant
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Todra Gorge

Featured Route For Todra Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying Armen from the top of the 2nd pitch.

Chibania 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Africa : Morocco : ... : Pilier Du Couchant
A dihedral 7 pitch climb on the Pilier du Couchant on generally excellent limestone. Pitch 1 involves some 5.2ish climbing with no bolts. Pitch 2 is the first real technical pitch that offers decent moves on 5.8 terrain. Pitch 3 involves some basic dihedral moves on 5.10. Pitch 4 is the best pitch with an awesome sustained crux up the dihedral that people seem to rate anywhere from 5.10b (6a) to 5.11a (6b+). Its difficulty depends mostly on your ability to stem and use a variety of techniques f...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Todra Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 'neck' of the gorge.
The 'neck' of the gorge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Todra and Dades Gorges
BETA PHOTO: Todra and Dades Gorges
Rock Climbing Photo: Utah bros at a drier and sportier version of Potas...
Utah bros at a drier and sportier version of Potas...
Rock Climbing Photo: admiring yesterday's route... and saying salam ale...
admiring yesterday's route... and saying salam ale...
Rock Climbing Photo: soaring over the gorge
soaring over the gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: wine, chicken tagine and Hammurabi's serenades... ...
wine, chicken tagine and Hammurabi's serenades... ...
Rock Climbing Photo: gorge security
gorge security
Rock Climbing Photo: scene outside the gorge
scene outside the gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of Todra Gorge
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Todra Gorge

Comments on Todra Gorge Add Comment
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By Todd Snyder
From: South Lake Tahoe
Apr 3, 2016
Todgha Gorge route notes from March 2016. The guidebook we used was "Todra" pocket guide (oxfordalpineclub.co.uk), 1st edition, 2015. The pocket guide is good but lacks some details - here are the notes I took while climbing at Todgha

We flew into Marrakech & had already arranged a taxi pickup via our 'riad' (Dar Ihssane - airbnb.com). I would HIGHLY recommend arranging your stay & taxi that way; being our first time in Morroco, we had no idea how things worked or how confusing things can be! We considered renting a car & are VERY glad we did not; traffic is *craazy*! The taxi fee from airport to the Medina was 160dh & our room with breakfast was 660dh for 2 nights. I would recommend Dar Ihssane - it is surprisingly quiet for being so close to Jamaa el Fna (10 minute walk).

From our room, we walked to Palais de la Bahia, Palais El Badiî & Tombeaux Saadiens very easily all in one day. These are great, historical sites well worth seeing. Also, of course, time in the Jamaa el Fna can't be missed; snake charmers, drum circles, tea stands, booths upon booths of goods & food.

We took the bus from Marrakech to Tinghir (supratour.com) for 130dh each. You must buy the ticket in advance; have the host of your riad get the ticket for you, they are all so helpful. It's an easy 20dh taxi ride from the medina to be bus station (or ~3km walk). Be sure to buy a ticket for your bag(s) at the station (20dh each?) as they'll go in the luggage compartment. These are modern, comfy buses; it stopped only twice in the ~8hr trip, each long enough to use the toilet & have a snack or meal. We stayed a night in Tinghir at Retour el Calme; highly recommended as its a lovely setting overlooking the river & away from city street noise. We paid 210dh for the night with breakfast & another 50dh for dinner for both of us!

You will easily find many 'friends' willing to help you to a riad, etc. If you arrange lodging at Todra Gorge in advance, most riads will pick you up in Tinghir when you arrive but you should make those arrangements. Otherwise, a grand taxi will cost 10dh each or 60-70 for a private car. We stayed at Dar Ayour & loved it! Super friendly, great food, very nice place (450dh/nt with breakfast & dinner & we had leftover for lunch!!). We talked with other climbers that stayed at Etoiles le Gorge for 220dh/nt with breakfast & lunch. Others camped atop Maison d'hôte but not sure their price but am sure it was cheap.


Climbing notes:

Plage Mansour Left:
Approach: Access this crag by walking along the aqueduct from the bridge at the gorge entrance.

#5. Unnamed, 6c: first bolt is really high but easy & secure climbing to reach it; another option is to do the 'new' route on the right (see below) & clip the bolt while lowering off. Well protected & fun sequential crux about half-height, then another less-cruxy sequence at 3/4-height. Good & easy climbing thereafter to the anchor. Anchor was 2 bolts each with screw-links , not equalized (causes rope twist!), 35m, ***

#5a. Start from a good ledge up & right of #5, first bolt is on a slab. The route is interesting & well-bolted but still a bit dirty. 35m, **

#7. L'Habitation des Etoiles, 6a+: Guide shows 2 pitches but the second pitch was not apparent - only 1 bolt far above the anchor & none others visible. Only first pitch done. Unremarkable, safe with a good anchor, 30m

#8. Voie Rosbif, 7a+: Very sharp & positive holds, felt a bit far between bolts but safe. I equalized the anchor & left a screw link. Starts with steep & big holds, then the crux @ 2nd bolt (side pulls with them feet to a jug to clip); then thin, technical climbing past the next bolt. Slightly easier & thin climbing to the anchor, 25m, **

#9. Inchallah, 6a+: Lower angle, fun climbing on mostly small holds. Somewhat sustained with no distinct crux, 28m, *

#17. Amigo Mia, 6c+: Steep climbing on good, sharp holds for the first half. The second half is very thin for hands & feet as well as somewhat sharp, 28m, **

#18. Unnamed, 6a: Fun moves with good holds that are not sharp. Straightforward, well-bolted with a good anchor, 30m,**

#19. Castorama, 6b: Optional boulder start or climb the right side to the boulder's top. A thin, technical move off the boulder to a few more easier & technical moves. Very fun but very short, 15m, ***

#19a. Shared anchor with #19 - steep jugs to start, then a few steep, technical moves followed by fun climbing to the anchor. Very short but fun, 15m, ***

#20. Amiga Mia, 6b: A steep start with big holds to fun climbing. Holds are all positive but kind (not sharp!). Great route, well bolted, 22m, ***


Dalle Hollandais:
Approach: This is a no-brainer! LOL
#9. Generator, bolts have been removed!

#10. 125 Anniversaire, 6c+: Relatively easy climbing up the arete with a lot of pigeon poop! The finish is steep, off-angle & sharp, 26m, *

#14. Saracosta, 6a+: Sharp & somewhat unremarkable but not bad, 30m, *

#15. U Cufi es Mesfi, 6a: good climbing with no particular crux, fun, 30m, **

Summer Gardens:
Approach: Walk through the gorge or drive until it widens to parking areas on the left & right. Choose any way to cross the river & walk between gardens to the rock face.

#10. Rainy Days, 6a: Only did 1st pitch - really fun, quality rock. Well-bolted but distance between bolts; all hard moves protected, 28m, **

#11. Roman et Lili, 6a: Very fun climbing on good rock that is not too sharp or polished. Enjoyable, 28m, **

#12. Le Mer le Blue, 6a: Start up a steep wall with many bolts! Great moves on good rock with varied features & fun movement. Eases off but stays fun to the anchor, 28m, ***


Pilier du Couchant:

#1. Voie Albert, 6a+:

Approach: We did this route 13March16 & it did not get sun until noon or a little after; it was still very cool in the shade but perfect in the sun. We waded the river barefoot - the water wasn't as cold as we expected & never more than knee deep & the rocks were mostly smooth. The start is pretty obvious off a blocky ledge to the left of the tree.

Route notes: The belay anchors are good (2 bolts) but not "equalized" - they have chord connecting the bolts & a rusty screw link in the lower bolt. The route *could* be rapped with an 80m role but the walk off is so casual, it wouldn't be worth it.

We completed the route in 4 pitches: P1 & P2 @ 70m - the crux of P1 comes about 25-30m up & is thin, technical & airy. P2 is straightforward & gives no rope drag. Belay ledge is sloping but good. P3 & P4 @ ~66m - airy climbing with quite a ways between bolts to an excellent belay ledge. If you don't feel solid on 6a climbing, cams can be placed often (*maybe* nuts if you're clever). P5 & P6 @ ~76m - We went slightly right, following the "as for Classique". There can be a lot of drag unless long runners are used at the appropriate places. Not so great sloping stance with 2 new bolts (no chord). P7 & P8 @ ~76m - these pitches are much lower angle with much further between bolts. Following the bolt line, everything is solid, don't get too far off route or it can be loose. The rock is also more blocky & can appear loose but all felt solid. From this anchor, we walked to the top in about 10m of 4th class to 3rd class.

The walk down is obvious & easy - the trail down can be seen from the summit. Look for cairns heading away from the face and slightly down & right. At a point where the cairns seem to lead to a cliff, you will find an easy ramp system down & left to the well-travelled trail that leads to the road. Decent took less than 40 minutes.


Winter Gardens:
Approach: After walking or driving through the gorge to the "Summer Gardens" parking (both sides of road just over bridge), find the vague trail on the right side of the parking opposite the summer gardens. Look for cairns up the right side of the drainage & the trail will become more obvious. Near the crag, you can walk right along some ramp systems to arrive at Dos Canas. The crag becomes shaded around 13:30 in mid-March.

#6. Afrique Physique, 7a: The name says it - physical, steep and fun! A must do, 6 bolts, 20m, ***

#7. Trois Petite Trous, 7a+: Fantastic, varied climbing with steep pockets & jugs to thin, technical moves followed by slab to more steep, exposed climbing to the anchor. Brilliant! Shaded at 14:40 (March), 11 bolts, 30m, ***

#8. Hilti Fada, 7b: Steep with smaller & more sloping holds than appears from the ground. Very technical & hard at the start & finish, 11 bolts, 30m, ***

#9. Aigle Noir, 6c+: nice start but the holds are more sloping than they appear! Short, hard for the grade & awkward, 7 bolts, 23m, *

#13. Unnamed, 6a: A fun, short route that shares the anchor with #14 Good moves on positive holds, 7bolts, 21m, **

#14. laisir de Grimpe, 7a+: Technical moves to start followed by excellent, sequential edges up the slightly overhanging headwall. Short & more fun than it looks, 6 bolts, 20m, **

#20. Bricolor, 6b: Interesting & fun climbing to the overhang. Well-protected, short headwall crux with great moves & exposure. Shaded at 13:30 (March), 8 bolts, 24m, ***

#21. Jardin D'Hiver, 6b: Decent, easy climbing to the overhang. Steep, big moves with buckets to easier climbing to the same anchor as #20. Shaded at 13:30 (March), 8 bolts, 24m, ***

#22. Cupidon, 6c: Seemed contrived at bolts 3-4 to stay off the route on the right. The moves over the steep part felt easier than 6c but were still fun. Shaded at 13:30 (March), 8 bolts, 24m, *


Petite Gorge Right:
This crag is sunny until 14:30 (mid-March).

#7. Prisamata Amigo, 5: Good holds, no particular crux, well protected, 28m, 10 bolts, *

#8.Unnamed, 5+: Nice but unremarkable, 28m, ?bolts

#11. Gabatxos, 6b: Really fun stemming start to good climbing with a nice finish! 28m, ?bolts **


Petite Gorge Left:
This crag is shaded until 14:30 (mid-March), then sunny until 16:00 (then shaded again).

#5. Bihar, 7a+: Easy climbing up the slab - use long slings on the first 3-4 draws to avoid rope drag. A short, steep headwall with only a couple tricky moves, 7 bolts, 20m, *

#6. Desillusion, 6c+: We did only the first pitch - quite a distance between bolts but still safe. Felt about 6b, fun & worth doing, 8 bolts, 30m, **

#7. Saiji, 6a: Good climbing with good protection, no particular crux, 30m, *

#16. Ensalada Metalica, 7a: An awesome route! Steep start (stick clip is nice) followed by easier but technical climbing to a sit-down rest. Then, climb the amazing, overhanging headwall on good holds with great moves! An afternoon send provides great photo opportunity! 10 bolts, 26m, ***

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