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|Submitted By:||Mary303 on Jan 26, 2009 with updates from Aventures verticales Maroc|
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By Todd Snyder
From: South Lake Tahoe
Apr 3, 2016
Todgha Gorge route notes from March 2016. The guidebook we used was "Todra" pocket guide (oxfordalpineclub.co.uk), 1st edition, 2015. The pocket guide is good but lacks some details - here are the notes I took while climbing at Todgha
We flew into Marrakech & had already arranged a taxi pickup via our 'riad' (Dar Ihssane - airbnb.com). I would HIGHLY recommend arranging your stay & taxi that way; being our first time in Morroco, we had no idea how things worked or how confusing things can be! We considered renting a car & are VERY glad we did not; traffic is *craazy*! The taxi fee from airport to the Medina was 160dh & our room with breakfast was 660dh for 2 nights. I would recommend Dar Ihssane - it is surprisingly quiet for being so close to Jamaa el Fna (10 minute walk).
From our room, we walked to Palais de la Bahia, Palais El Badiî & Tombeaux Saadiens very easily all in one day. These are great, historical sites well worth seeing. Also, of course, time in the Jamaa el Fna can't be missed; snake charmers, drum circles, tea stands, booths upon booths of goods & food.
We took the bus from Marrakech to Tinghir (supratour.com) for 130dh each. You must buy the ticket in advance; have the host of your riad get the ticket for you, they are all so helpful. It's an easy 20dh taxi ride from the medina to be bus station (or ~3km walk). Be sure to buy a ticket for your bag(s) at the station (20dh each?) as they'll go in the luggage compartment. These are modern, comfy buses; it stopped only twice in the ~8hr trip, each long enough to use the toilet & have a snack or meal. We stayed a night in Tinghir at Retour el Calme; highly recommended as its a lovely setting overlooking the river & away from city street noise. We paid 210dh for the night with breakfast & another 50dh for dinner for both of us!
You will easily find many 'friends' willing to help you to a riad, etc. If you arrange lodging at Todra Gorge in advance, most riads will pick you up in Tinghir when you arrive but you should make those arrangements. Otherwise, a grand taxi will cost 10dh each or 60-70 for a private car. We stayed at Dar Ayour & loved it! Super friendly, great food, very nice place (450dh/nt with breakfast & dinner & we had leftover for lunch!!). We talked with other climbers that stayed at Etoiles le Gorge for 220dh/nt with breakfast & lunch. Others camped atop Maison d'hôte but not sure their price but am sure it was cheap.
Plage Mansour Left:
Approach: Access this crag by walking along the aqueduct from the bridge at the gorge entrance.
#5. Unnamed, 6c: first bolt is really high but easy & secure climbing to reach it; another option is to do the 'new' route on the right (see below) & clip the bolt while lowering off. Well protected & fun sequential crux about half-height, then another less-cruxy sequence at 3/4-height. Good & easy climbing thereafter to the anchor. Anchor was 2 bolts each with screw-links , not equalized (causes rope twist!), 35m, ***
#5a. Start from a good ledge up & right of #5, first bolt is on a slab. The route is interesting & well-bolted but still a bit dirty. 35m, **
#7. L'Habitation des Etoiles, 6a+: Guide shows 2 pitches but the second pitch was not apparent - only 1 bolt far above the anchor & none others visible. Only first pitch done. Unremarkable, safe with a good anchor, 30m
#8. Voie Rosbif, 7a+: Very sharp & positive holds, felt a bit far between bolts but safe. I equalized the anchor & left a screw link. Starts with steep & big holds, then the crux @ 2nd bolt (side pulls with them feet to a jug to clip); then thin, technical climbing past the next bolt. Slightly easier & thin climbing to the anchor, 25m, **
#9. Inchallah, 6a+: Lower angle, fun climbing on mostly small holds. Somewhat sustained with no distinct crux, 28m, *
#17. Amigo Mia, 6c+: Steep climbing on good, sharp holds for the first half. The second half is very thin for hands & feet as well as somewhat sharp, 28m, **
#18. Unnamed, 6a: Fun moves with good holds that are not sharp. Straightforward, well-bolted with a good anchor, 30m,**
#19. Castorama, 6b: Optional boulder start or climb the right side to the boulder's top. A thin, technical move off the boulder to a few more easier & technical moves. Very fun but very short, 15m, ***
#19a. Shared anchor with #19 - steep jugs to start, then a few steep, technical moves followed by fun climbing to the anchor. Very short but fun, 15m, ***
#20. Amiga Mia, 6b: A steep start with big holds to fun climbing. Holds are all positive but kind (not sharp!). Great route, well bolted, 22m, ***
Approach: This is a no-brainer! LOL
#9. Generator, bolts have been removed!
#10. 125 Anniversaire, 6c+: Relatively easy climbing up the arete with a lot of pigeon poop! The finish is steep, off-angle & sharp, 26m, *
#14. Saracosta, 6a+: Sharp & somewhat unremarkable but not bad, 30m, *
#15. U Cufi es Mesfi, 6a: good climbing with no particular crux, fun, 30m, **
Approach: Walk through the gorge or drive until it widens to parking areas on the left & right. Choose any way to cross the river & walk between gardens to the rock face.
#10. Rainy Days, 6a: Only did 1st pitch - really fun, quality rock. Well-bolted but distance between bolts; all hard moves protected, 28m, **
#11. Roman et Lili, 6a: Very fun climbing on good rock that is not too sharp or polished. Enjoyable, 28m, **
#12. Le Mer le Blue, 6a: Start up a steep wall with many bolts! Great moves on good rock with varied features & fun movement. Eases off but stays fun to the anchor, 28m, ***
Pilier du Couchant:
#1. Voie Albert, 6a+:
Approach: We did this route 13March16 & it did not get sun until noon or a little after; it was still very cool in the shade but perfect in the sun. We waded the river barefoot - the water wasn't as cold as we expected & never more than knee deep & the rocks were mostly smooth. The start is pretty obvious off a blocky ledge to the left of the tree.
Route notes: The belay anchors are good (2 bolts) but not "equalized" - they have chord connecting the bolts & a rusty screw link in the lower bolt. The route *could* be rapped with an 80m role but the walk off is so casual, it wouldn't be worth it.
We completed the route in 4 pitches: P1 & P2 @ 70m - the crux of P1 comes about 25-30m up & is thin, technical & airy. P2 is straightforward & gives no rope drag. Belay ledge is sloping but good. P3 & P4 @ ~66m - airy climbing with quite a ways between bolts to an excellent belay ledge. If you don't feel solid on 6a climbing, cams can be placed often (*maybe* nuts if you're clever). P5 & P6 @ ~76m - We went slightly right, following the "as for Classique". There can be a lot of drag unless long runners are used at the appropriate places. Not so great sloping stance with 2 new bolts (no chord). P7 & P8 @ ~76m - these pitches are much lower angle with much further between bolts. Following the bolt line, everything is solid, don't get too far off route or it can be loose. The rock is also more blocky & can appear loose but all felt solid. From this anchor, we walked to the top in about 10m of 4th class to 3rd class.
The walk down is obvious & easy - the trail down can be seen from the summit. Look for cairns heading away from the face and slightly down & right. At a point where the cairns seem to lead to a cliff, you will find an easy ramp system down & left to the well-travelled trail that leads to the road. Decent took less than 40 minutes.
Approach: After walking or driving through the gorge to the "Summer Gardens" parking (both sides of road just over bridge), find the vague trail on the right side of the parking opposite the summer gardens. Look for cairns up the right side of the drainage & the trail will become more obvious. Near the crag, you can walk right along some ramp systems to arrive at Dos Canas. The crag becomes shaded around 13:30 in mid-March.
#6. Afrique Physique, 7a: The name says it - physical, steep and fun! A must do, 6 bolts, 20m, ***
#7. Trois Petite Trous, 7a+: Fantastic, varied climbing with steep pockets & jugs to thin, technical moves followed by slab to more steep, exposed climbing to the anchor. Brilliant! Shaded at 14:40 (March), 11 bolts, 30m, ***
#8. Hilti Fada, 7b: Steep with smaller & more sloping holds than appears from the ground. Very technical & hard at the start & finish, 11 bolts, 30m, ***
#9. Aigle Noir, 6c+: nice start but the holds are more sloping than they appear! Short, hard for the grade & awkward, 7 bolts, 23m, *
#13. Unnamed, 6a: A fun, short route that shares the anchor with #14 Good moves on positive holds, 7bolts, 21m, **
#14. laisir de Grimpe, 7a+: Technical moves to start followed by excellent, sequential edges up the slightly overhanging headwall. Short & more fun than it looks, 6 bolts, 20m, **
#20. Bricolor, 6b: Interesting & fun climbing to the overhang. Well-protected, short headwall crux with great moves & exposure. Shaded at 13:30 (March), 8 bolts, 24m, ***
#21. Jardin D'Hiver, 6b: Decent, easy climbing to the overhang. Steep, big moves with buckets to easier climbing to the same anchor as #20. Shaded at 13:30 (March), 8 bolts, 24m, ***
#22. Cupidon, 6c: Seemed contrived at bolts 3-4 to stay off the route on the right. The moves over the steep part felt easier than 6c but were still fun. Shaded at 13:30 (March), 8 bolts, 24m, *
Petite Gorge Right:
This crag is sunny until 14:30 (mid-March).
#7. Prisamata Amigo, 5: Good holds, no particular crux, well protected, 28m, 10 bolts, *
#8.Unnamed, 5+: Nice but unremarkable, 28m, ?bolts
#11. Gabatxos, 6b: Really fun stemming start to good climbing with a nice finish! 28m, ?bolts **
Petite Gorge Left:
This crag is shaded until 14:30 (mid-March), then sunny until 16:00 (then shaded again).
#5. Bihar, 7a+: Easy climbing up the slab - use long slings on the first 3-4 draws to avoid rope drag. A short, steep headwall with only a couple tricky moves, 7 bolts, 20m, *
#6. Desillusion, 6c+: We did only the first pitch - quite a distance between bolts but still safe. Felt about 6b, fun & worth doing, 8 bolts, 30m, **
#7. Saiji, 6a: Good climbing with good protection, no particular crux, 30m, *
#16. Ensalada Metalica, 7a: An awesome route! Steep start (stick clip is nice) followed by easier but technical climbing to a sit-down rest. Then, climb the amazing, overhanging headwall on good holds with great moves! An afternoon send provides great photo opportunity! 10 bolts, 26m, ***
By Leslie McG
Jul 12, 2016
|The guidebook Hassan wrote is awesome. For $250 dirham( $25 USD as of July 2016) he will not only sell it to you but also go out with you and show you where each crag and climb is. Once his new book is made he will exchange the old book for the new one free of charge. From what he explained to me, he sees Todra as a special place and wants to teach the next generation of local climbers how to take care of the Rock and the gorge, so please pick up any trash you see during your visit. Summer is a very hot time to go, but if you opt for AC rooms, and splitting your climbing days between early morning and late afternoon you'll have a stellar time. We slummed it at Etoile Des Gorges, with no AC for 3 nights. All inclusive for two was $25 USD per night. Now we are at Hotel Amazir and for $50 USD per night all inclusive we have AC and a pool! Single women climbers I would avoid Etoile unless you want to be hit on every night! The rock here is good, albeit sharp in some places. An 80m or doubles would be VERY useful. Anchors are solid and bolting is excellent. Locals are helpful and friendly. I encourage any climber considering a trip to make it happen. You will not be disappointed!|
By Aventures verticales Maroc
Jul 13, 2016
it's not Hassan who wrote this guide book, but some Spanish people a long years ago.
Hassan only does photocopies of this guidebook after have written the new routes that us or the foreign climbers have done.
Never one dirhams of this topoguide goes for to buy bolds, anchors...... But only for alcool and shit.
Since 30 years, he do nothing in the gorges, you will find none adult or child here, who will tell you that Hassan have teached something to someone.
It's a great liar and a big problème for other local people and climbing development in Todra gorges.
Since 3 years, we re-bolted the routes and created a lot of news.
We buy all equipment ourselves, without help of none.
We teach climbing to all moroccan people with several free training in the year.
And Hassan all days troubles this work.
"Us" is "Aventures verticales des gorges du Todgha"
Kind regards to all
By Aventures verticales Maroc
Jul 20, 2016
From "Aventures verticales des gorges du Todgha",
A group of local people which work for developping of climbing in morocco in général and in the gorges in particular
In the Todra gorges you can climb all year. There are always a cliff on the shadow or on the sun. But the best months are September to November and Mars to June.
The lime stone is very compact and very sticky. The routes are well bolted at now because the "Aventures verticales des gorges du Todgha" company, does a big work about the equipment in the gorges.
Not at all crowded with climbers because there are more then 500 routes for all degrees.
Hotel "Yasmina" and hotel "les roches" inside the gorges, are closed since 2 years ago, because a big stone fell on the roof.
The very nice place to stay at now is "Dar Tiwira" the new climbers house. Guest house with hot showers, large, clean rooms, great location, camping is possible under the berber tent. Tradionnal meals cooked by the mum. The 2 sons Allal and Abdul are climbers.
Find the shop of "Aventures Verticales des gorges du Todgha" Just 400m before the entrance at the gorges heart to buy the last new guidebook for 250 dh (about 30$)
All information on website: climbing-in-morocco.com
You can too find the guideook in digital version to download
The wrote homemade guidebook, sold by Hassan and the pocket guidebook of Oxford are not correct, there are lot of mistakes.
To come here from Marrakech by bus.
With CTM, Supratour, Almou or other company at the bus station.
The price is 130dh person.
The best is buy the ticket in advanceoften the host of your riad get the ticket for you.
The trip takes around 8 hr , with 2 stops, each long enough to use the toilet & have a snack or meal.
The gorges are at 14 km from Tinghir
If you arrange lodging at Todra Gorge in advance with Dar Tiwira for exemple, they will pick you up in Tinghir when you arrive.
The taxi to the gorges from Tinghir cost 7 dh pers.
Aventures Verticales dans les gorges du Todgha, is a structure located in the Todra Gorge over the province of Tinghir.
Its main activity is the accompaniment for climbing, mountaineering and hiking for the tourists of the region.
It also has a shop sell mountain sporting goods and offers renting the equipment for practice of the activities it accompanies or not.
The accompaniment is carried out by trained and qualified local guides.
This structure does a huge work of equipment and re-equipment of climbing routes in the Todra gorges and more widely in Morocco.
It develops vertical activities such as alpine progression paths and has created the first part of a via ferrata, the first in Morocco and certainly in Africa.
This structure has made a climbing guidebook on Todgha and regularly offers free training for young people and children who wish to practice climbing in the gorges.
Warning: Unfortunately, the transparency with which wants to work "Vertical Adventures Morocco" in Todra gorges. Display of prices and refusal to distribute bribes causes problems with some local actors attached to these practices.
Also we caution you on false indications made by these individuals as well as on the danger of the completely false copy of the guidebook they will try to sell you.
We encourage you to visit us when you come and so avoid some "traps"
This only applies to a few bad individuals, this is not in the minds of people which live here who are generous and welcoming.
All information about the climbing in the Todra gorges on website: climbing-in-morocco.com
or on our facebook page :
Mostly don't hesitate to ask us any information about your next stay.
You're welcome or marhaban (in berbere language)