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Todra Gorge

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Jardins d'ete 
Pilier Du Couchant 
Plage Mansour  

Todra Gorge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 850'
Location: 31.5869, -5.5911 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,758
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Mary303 on Jan 26, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: my todra peeps!!!... Hassan, the author of the gui...


Editorial Note: This text is a compilation of two submissions.

Submitted by Mary303 on Nov 19, 2008:
Huge gorge, so you can find sun or shade at any time of the day. During our visit (late Oct-early Nov) it was sunny and warm everyday, but once the sun goes away, break out the layers.

The rock is pocketed limestone. Beautiful, sticky, and VERY sharp in most places. Most routes are clean and high quality.

Not at all crowded with climbers, but the gorge is a huge tourist attraction. However, if you are out climbing all day, you won't even notice :)

Lonely Planet and other sites said not to stay at Hotel Yasmina, but we found it to be the best in the gorge. Hot showers, large, clean rooms, great location, and great staff (they love to play drums for you at night). They offer camping on the roof. There are 4 other hotels (only 1 other right in the gorge). The 3 at the entrance were all smaller, not as clean and right in the middle of tourist traffic. Even Hassan (the local guide and guide book author) says not to stay at the Hotel Mansour.

Find Hassan Mouhajir to buy his homemade guidebook. He sells it for 250 dirhams (right now that is about $30 US). The book and guiding are his livelihood, so please do not make copies and give to friends or post topos on the internet.

The goats will knock of rocks (some can be very large) and the herders will throw rocks at the goats, which will fall over the edge! Neither will yell "Rock!"

Submitted by Forestvonsinkafinger on Jan 26, 2009:
ÏÑÉ ÌæÑÌ A few klicks northwest of Tinerhir, the Gorges du Todre cuts through the High Atlas creating a towering slot canyon with hundreds of routes of all grades and qualities. There are several Herberge (hostels) and hotels to suit your pocketbook. I suggest the eastern of the two that are actually in the gorge for price, quality, and style (of course). If you are there on holiday, there will likely be Europeans of varied nationalities there to climb that will have nice beta. There are at least nine areas in the gorge, and many more in the proximity.

You may choose to bring a thick trad-rack in spite of the grip of sport routes. Many of the routes are multi-pitch and there is a fair amount of bouldering to be had in the western gully. Occasionally you may find a cheap photocopied rough-guidebook. Friendly local Berber guides at Hotel Jasmina that will take you out for a fair price if you are sans-gear. To dirtbag, fill up on Bsara and Harrara (5dh) accompanied by Morrocan crepes (3dh) whenever possible.

Getting There 

Submitted by Mary303 on Nov 19, 2008:
You can fly into Rabat, Casablanca, or even Ourzazate.
From Rabat and Casablanca, you should take the train to Marrakesh.
From Marrakesh (8 hours) and Ourzazate (3 hours), you will have to take a bus to Tinehir. Going through the Atlas Mountains is very windy(they hand out barf bags, which many people actually use). I think Ourzazate bypasses the craziness, but you'll have to pay the extra for the small flight there.
From Tinehir, you will have to get a grand taxi into the gorge.

  • The only liquor store in the area is in Tinehir, so try to get it before you go into the gorge. This may be difficult as the grand taxis try to fill up the car completely, so you won't be the only ones in the taxi. It's really not that difficult to make an evening run after climbing, but be ready to haggle the price and stick to your guns (normal fare should be 7 dirhams each way). Prices seem to go up the later you try to leave or the more you look like a tourist!

Submitted by Forestvonsinkafinger on Jan 26, 2009:
From Marrakech take the N9 toward Oarzazate (the Hollywood of the Sahara) where you may choose to spend the night, there are many cheap hotels near the main square and often cultural festivities. From Oarzazate (with a full tank of gas and food!!), take the N10 North through no-man's-land to Tinerhir. Once in Tinerhir, on the north end of town there is a road number 6902 that goes west and a sign that says "Gorges du Todre." Take this to Za. Sidi-Abdilali where you will see the gorge.

From Azrou, take the N13 south (with food and a full tank!) to its junction with the N10 in Rachidia. There is a nice roadside stand where one may get a nice cold glass of fresh squeezed orange juice for 10 Dirham (ahh). Take the N10 south to Tinerhir and follow above directions.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Todra Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Todra Gorge:
Albert   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Pilier Du Couchant
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Todra Gorge

Featured Route For Todra Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying Armen from the top of the 2nd pitch.

Chibania 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Africa : Morocco : ... : Pilier Du Couchant
A dihedral 7 pitch climb on the Pilier du Couchant on generally excellent limestone. Pitch 1 involves some 5.2ish climbing with no bolts. Pitch 2 is the first real technical pitch that offers decent moves on 5.8 terrain. Pitch 3 involves some basic dihedral moves on 5.10. Pitch 4 is the best pitch with an awesome sustained crux up the dihedral that people seem to rate anywhere from 5.10b (6a) to 5.11a (6b+). Its difficulty depends mostly on your ability to stem and use a variety of techniques f...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Todra Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 'neck' of the gorge.
The 'neck' of the gorge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Todra and Dades Gorges
BETA PHOTO: Todra and Dades Gorges
Rock Climbing Photo: Utah bros at a drier and sportier version of Potas...
Utah bros at a drier and sportier version of Potas...
Rock Climbing Photo: admiring yesterday's route... and saying salam ale...
admiring yesterday's route... and saying salam ale...
Rock Climbing Photo: soaring over the gorge
soaring over the gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: wine, chicken tagine and Hammurabi's serenades... ...
wine, chicken tagine and Hammurabi's serenades... ...
Rock Climbing Photo: gorge security
gorge security
Rock Climbing Photo: scene outside the gorge
scene outside the gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of Todra Gorge
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Todra Gorge

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