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Somewhere n00b
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Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) S,TR 

Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: (TR) Brett Pinar and Tim Manefesto, October 2011, FL: Alex Honnold (solo), FL w/ bolts: Jeremy Schoenborn, Robby Schoenborn, September 2014
Page Views: 1,050
Submitted By: caughtinside on Oct 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Radness!!!!!!!!

(SteelMonkey pic)

Description 

This thing is destined for greatness! Fun, thug style moves on the prow of the ship. This thing has been called 'the easiest .12a tick in Josh' and 'the Big Moe of Indian Cove' ensuring the crowds will come to siege toprope project it for the coveted one two Joshua Tree tick.

The secret to success on this climb is to squeeze as hard as you can on every grip to hold the grains in place.

First true FA was onsight by Alex Honnold. Rumor is he did it in approach shoes.

Unaware or perhaps uncaring of the history of this route, it was later rap retrobolted and the lead claimed by some guys in 2014. SHAME.

Location 

Leftmost route at Somewhere n00b.

Protection 

toprope. Maybe you'll get to lead on the 4 bolts while they last.


Photos of Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) Slideshow Add Photo
Jeremy Schoenborn on the first lead of Big Todd
Jeremy Schoenborn on the first lead of Big Todd
Robby Schoenborn on the B.T.
Robby Schoenborn on the B.T.

Comments on Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2014
By Murf
Oct 30, 2011

Could this be bolted as a lead?
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

There is talk of a possible bolting happening next summer. The 4ft long rebar glue-ins will need the summer heat for the glue to set and cure properly. Regular expansion bolts will just not hold in the sugary oatmeal patina, regardless of size, length, or girth.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 31, 2011

FA party called the route 5.11b...I couldn't touch it (no guns...)..Tucker got it with one hang. Brett Pinar and Tim Manefesto send (they are young and strong;...go figure...)...If someone bolted this, I'm sure the gym crowd would enjoy this route;..not my cup of tea.....There is a bolted anchor on top/
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 3, 2012

Alex Honnold soloed the Big Todd on his recent trip to Joshua Tree!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 24, 2014

Alex Honnold soloed this......all 35 ft? The sugary oatmeal patina texture sounds incredible.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
4 days ago

4 bolts appeared and was recently led by FL (lead) Jeremy Schoenborn, Robby Schoenborn 9/14
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
4 days ago
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Bolted! Now that is pathetic! The Gordo_Bots strike again!!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
3 days ago

Wow. Where to even begin. So many transgressions to such a proud route!!!

First, you guys changed the grade on this climb. I listed it as .12a, because it was 12a before some tossers aggressively cleaned the holds into jugs. Way to drag it down to your level chippers! But the fact that my opinion of this climb was changed to .11- without my consent just shows that ethics don't exist on the internet.

Second, a couple guys bolting in bad style which had already been led in good style! And then claiming the FA! Shocking!! Rap bolting a route which had seen an onsight free solo... then claiming the FA! Newsflash: if something has been climbed without a rope before you, you didn't get the FA!

I have re-edited the route to reflect it's proud and true history!
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
2 days ago

5.11-rating was giving to the climb by the FA (top rope ) party of Brett Pinar and Tim Manefesto, and confirmed by the first lead (not the first free solo). Most sought after lead in the Park...the gold standard. As for extensive cleaning and "chipping".....didn't happen. Give it a burn and see what you think....(Since when is the first free solo the first lead?)......
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
2 days ago

Spiderline. First one up without a top rope is the FA.
By C Miller
Administrator
1 day ago

The first ascent information for this route has been edited to reflect the convoluted nature of the various ascents.

FA or first ascent is just that - the first person or persons to climb the route in any style, be it aid, top-rope, free climbed or even on-sight solo. The first ascent, depending upon the manner of the ascent, may be improved upon but there can only be one first ascent.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
1 day ago
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

But wait Todd... you said the FA guys thought it was 11b... then contradict yourself and the true FA-ists by calling it 11-. So which is it? Is 11b now 11-? Is 11- now the industry standard for 11b?

I'm sticking with solid 5.13, which is 12a.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
1 day ago

So two guys can get the same toprope FA? And I can erase any lead bolt ascents by erasing the lead bolts?