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Surfer Rosa S 
Tobacco Road S 

Tobacco Road 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 3,026
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Nov 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Long clip before crux moves.

Description 

This climb is as classic as its neighboors.

Start up the easy ground just right of the mini-dark and damp cave, then you reach up and start traversing out the roof on very sharp but good holds, coming to the end of the traverse is the crux of the route and it'll make you work for it. The upper portion of the climb is easier than the rest and on rainy days it isn't even done, once you clip the last fixed extendable draw people just lower off so as not to get soaked by the rain.

Location 

Outside of the overhanging section, to the right of Reckless Abandon and left of Pod (5.13b/c). The route starts easy then traverses out the broken looking rock to the high headwall.

Protection 

Fixed draws. 7 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Tobacco Road Slideshow Add Photo
H. Nguyen on her way to the very high first bolt
H. Nguyen on her way to the very high first bolt
H. Nguyen, about to enter the brief crux section
H. Nguyen, about to enter the brief crux section

Comments on Tobacco Road Add Comment
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By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

12b in the guidebook. contrary to the description, it is just left of The Mercy Seat (13a/b) not The Pod (also 13a/b), which is several bolt lines away.

this route is a classic (10d to a short boulder prob. to 5.9), but needs new nylon--the yellow specta is now almost a year old and who knows about the green webbing!
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2007

Eddie,

This route is just left of Mercy Seat as you said, but I've heard Mercy Seat called 13b/c, also I don't remember but there is 1 or 2 climbs to the left of this before you get to Reckless Abandon. I just put The Pod, and Reckless there for reference, I wasn't indicating they were right next door.

And yes, the slings do need replacing.
By Chaz-O
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

The draws are in bad shape too. I noticed several were very worn and sharpened, but I didn't have any extras on me to replace them!
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Whoa, so much grade inflation on this page. Neither Pod nor Mercy Seat are anywhere near 13b/c, and Tobacco Road feels like standard 12a; way easier than narcissus, in my opinion.

Also, there are now new climbtech permadraws on the route.
By Neal Poorman
2 days ago

On 10.21.'14, After the undercling crux i matched on the big jug/block and the entire thing broke off! I was able to roll it off of myself before the rope pulled tight. No one was injured thankfully. It was getting dark so i didn't have time to check out what the route looks like now. Fair to say its likely a bit more difficult.