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Tobacco Road 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 4,485
Submitted By: Ladd on Nov 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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H. Nguyen, about to enter the brief crux section

Description 

Start up the easy ground just right of the mini-dark and damp cave, then you reach up and start traversing out the roof on very sharp but good holds, coming to the end of the traverse is the crux of the route and it'll make you work for it. The upper portion of the climb is easier than the rest and on rainy days it isn't even done, once you clip the last fixed extendable draw people just lower off so as not to get soaked by the rain.

Location 

Outside of the overhanging section that goes up to the right of a slimy looking part of the wall and then traverses right through permadraws and then up.

Protection 

Fixed draws. 7 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Tobacco Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long clip before crux moves.
Long clip before crux moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: H. Nguyen on her way to the very high first bolt
H. Nguyen on her way to the very high first bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin on Tobacco Road
Kevin on Tobacco Road

Comments on Tobacco Road Add Comment
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By Neal Poorman
Oct 22, 2014

On 10.21.'14, After the undercling crux i matched on the big jug/block and the entire thing broke off! I was able to roll it off of myself before the rope pulled tight. No one was injured thankfully. It was getting dark so i didn't have time to check out what the route looks like now. Fair to say its likely a bit more difficult.
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
May 19, 2015

Instead of moving around the block on good holds, one now has to make a big move from the jug before to the jug after where the block once resided. A big black mark is visible where the block used to be.

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