Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cracked Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Arete 
Algebra 
Attica 
Bat Splat 
Cello 
Chewbacca 
Come On Sun 
Crack of Mind 
Dog Leg 
Easy Money 
Exodus 
Free Box 
Froggy Bottoms 
Icy Fingers 
Javelin 
Lago 
Margin 
Orange Peel 
Othello 
Pirouette 
Reptilicus (The Crock) 
Round The Corner 
Salvation 
Summertime 
Superfresh 
Thor 
Tick Fever 
Tobacco Road 
Where Eagles Dare 
Unsorted Routes:

Tobacco Road 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kees, Kudo, and Trommer, 1981
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

Right before the crux....

Description 

This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400 feet up the canyon on the left. For some reason, I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left-leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a #0.3 Camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "VS".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

1 set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra #0.3 Camalot.



Comments on Tobacco Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Jun 6, 2010

This route may deserve a PG-13 but doesn't seem dangerous enough for an R rating.