Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cracked Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Arete TR 
Algebra T 
Attica T 
Bat Splat T 
Cello T 
Chewbacca T 
Come On Sun T 
Crack of Mind T 
Dog Leg T 
Easy Money T 
Exodus T 
Free Box T 
Froggy Bottoms T 
Icy Fingers T 
Javelin T 
Lago T 
Margin T 
Orange Peel T 
Othello T 
Pirouette T 
Reptilicus (The Crock) T 
Round The Corner T 
Salvation T 
Summertime T 
Superfresh T 
Thor T 
Tick Fever T,S 
Tobacco Road T 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Unsorted Routes:

Tobacco Road 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kees, Kudo, and Trommer, 1981
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Right before the crux....

Description 

This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400 feet up the canyon on the left. For some reason, I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left-leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a #0.3 Camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "VS".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

1 set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra #0.3 Camalot.



Comments on Tobacco Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Jun 6, 2010

This route may deserve a PG-13 but doesn't seem dangerous enough for an R rating.