Tobacco Road  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Kees, Kudo, and Trommer, 1981 Submitted By:  Guy H. on Oct 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Right before the crux....

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Description 

This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400 feet up the canyon on the left. For some reason, I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left-leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a #0.3 Camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "VS".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection 

1 set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra #0.3 Camalot.