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Climb the right-facing corner that has a nice, thin, finger crack at its back to a ledge below the upper face. Clip two bolts, or don't, on the face and climb into the perfect hand crack at the top.
It lies 20' right of Intuition or 20' left of The Ground Doesn't Lie.
Medium nuts for the first part, then I plugged a #0.5 C4 and a #1 C4 at the top past the two bolts.
Me on T&J.
I think the route is harder than 5.7 if you do not...
From: Lyons, CO
Dec 21, 2009
I found the second bolt to be superfluous with a perfect 0.75" cam placement right next to it. Also, the anchor seems to come in the middle of the good climbing. I would have put it 5 feet higher; after the hand crack at a much better stance.
|By John Spielvogel|
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I really enjoyed this climb, it is pretty smooth til you hit hand crack right under the two anchors. That is where it gets a bit tricky, be prepared.