Toast & Jam?
||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||led on gear by at least 1999, bolted by Dan Hare & Tom Kohlmann, 2008|
|Page Views: ||1,280|
|Submitted By: ||J. Fox on Jan 2, 2009|
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Myself leading T&J. Photo by Dyan F.
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Climb the right-facing corner that has a nice, thin, finger crack at its back to a ledge below the upper face. Clip two bolts, or don't, on the face and climb into the perfect hand crack at the top.
Medium nuts for the first part, then I plugged a #0.5 C4 and a #1 C4 at the top past the two bolts.
I think the route is harder than 5.7 if you do not...
From: La Mesa, CA
Dec 21, 2009
I found the second bolt to be superfluous with a perfect 0.75" cam placement right next to it. Also, the anchor seems to come in the middle of the good climbing. I would have put it 5 feet higher; after the hand crack at a much better stance.
By John Spielvogel
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I really enjoyed this climb, it is pretty smooth til you hit hand crack right under the two anchors. That is where it gets a bit tricky, be prepared.