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Toast & Jam? 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: led on gear by at least 1999, bolted by Dan Hare & Tom Kohlmann, 2008
Season: All
Page Views: 1,056
Submitted By: J. Fox on Jan 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Myself leading T&J.

Photo by Dyan F.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the right-facing corner that has a nice, thin, finger crack at its back to a ledge below the upper face. Clip two bolts, or don't, on the face and climb into the perfect hand crack at the top.

Location 

It lies 20' right of Intuition or 20' left of The Ground Doesn't Lie.

Protection 

Medium nuts for the first part, then I plugged a #0.5 C4 and a #1 C4 at the top past the two bolts.


Photos of Toast & Jam? Slideshow Add Photo
Me on T&J.
Me on T&J.
I think the route is harder than 5.7 if you do not stem.
I think the route is harder than 5.7 if you do not...

Comments on Toast & Jam? Add Comment
Show which comments
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Dec 21, 2009

I found the second bolt to be superfluous with a perfect 0.75" cam placement right next to it. Also, the anchor seems to come in the middle of the good climbing. I would have put it 5 feet higher; after the hand crack at a much better stance.
By John Spielvogel
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I really enjoyed this climb, it is pretty smooth til you hit hand crack right under the two anchors. That is where it gets a bit tricky, be prepared.