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Toady Dreams 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 10, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: From my perspective belaying the 2nd at the anchor...


Better than most of the routes in this section. There are a few cool cruxes that are tricky and crimpy climbing through a few distinct layers of rock. The true crux comes at the upper bulge on pretty orange rock.

Start up from the ledge on moderate terrain past two bolts before getting to the first hard moves (might be harder if you are short). Overcome this section on edges at odd angles and interesting footwork past two more bolts and on to a rest ledge. Above is the crimpy crux bulge where reading the rock can be interesting because everything looks like holds but only a few are good. Pull that and make a few easy moves around to the right of a small roof and back to the left to the chains on a slab.


Start on the ledge just right of the beginning of White Toad (5.7).


6 bolts to ring bolt anchor

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Rock Climbing Photo: Toady Dreams! Now you know :D
Toady Dreams! Now you know :D

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By S. Neoh
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

"Did I find an easier sequence thru the crux? Perhaps, since I thought it is significantly easier than 10c." I have since confirmed this; if you are confident about climbing up to one body length to the left or right of the bolt line (don't worry, you can still clip the bolts from good stances), the difficulty is more like 10a. I definitely felt I followed the line of weakness today and had to lean out quite a bit to clip two bolts along the way, albeit from good handholds and stances.
I like this route. 2.5 stars for me.
By Ming
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I did this route back in June by accident thinking it was Charity Case. I kept thinking it was Charity Case because every time things got hard a little traverse to the right (about a body length on ledges) of the bolt line seem to make it significantly easier. I never thought I was doing a 10 at all. My second, on the other hand, had all kinds of troubles as he tried a few moves straight up.
From: Medford
Sep 29, 2014

Like other comments above, I moved right at the crux, where the finish is easier than 5.10
If one was to go straight up the bolt line at the crux I feel like the climb is something like 11b
maybe we are all missing a sequence/move.
Pretty cool climb either way, secluded and available even when main cliff is crowded.

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