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Eagle Rock
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To The Sun 

To The Sun 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Lynn Householder, 1979
Season: August-February
Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: Merlin on Oct 1, 2006
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  • Description 

    A buddy of mine and I headed up to do the Dihedral Route on Eagle Rock, since someone was already on their way up we figured first come first serve and headed towards this route.

    Scramble up another 30-50 feet from the base of the Great Dihedral and set a belay when it becomes obvious that the climbing is 5th class. From here you can either traverse right for 20 or so feet to a tree and then head up the obvious buttress (5.5) or head straight up through some roofs (5.6-5.7) before gaining the obvious buttress on Eagle Rock.

    Climb up 150-200 feet and set a belay on any of a number of large ledges when you feel like it. From here, head to the top of Eagle Rock.

    You can scramble 100 or so feet to climbers left and do a series of rappels from bolts on the Dihedral route to escape.


    Protection 

    Standard rack, nothing to big or small.



    Comments on To The Sun Add Comment
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    By Merlin
    From: Grand Junction
    Oct 1, 2006

    I'm not sure is this is standard or not, but I posted this route to let people know to skip it. The climbing was dull, unaesthetic, and quite dirty. We found a bouldering move on the route to add to the spice up top (v1 or v2?), but other than that, this route is pretty boring.

    If you are a new leader, make sure to take the traverse under the roofs towards the obvious tree before heading up. It might be a good first lead, and the views up top are nice, but otherwise steer clear.

    By Dmitriy Zinchenko
    May 26, 2009

    Merlin is spot on about traversing right to the tree before you start climbing up the buttress. The climb is very much like Pine Tree Route lower down in the canyon - relatively easy and low angle with OK to decent pro. I didn't think it was that bad. Not to be missed is the final, steep handcrack that's short (sadly) and protects with a #3 Camalot.