To the Moon 5.10b V0
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 V0 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Scarpelli |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on May 2, 2007 |
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Description From the parking lot, walk down and around the most prominent rock, to the West. To the Moon is the crack splitting this West face. Difficult thin hands start leads to a pod, and easier climbing (5.8). Often toproped, but originally established as a boulder problem, as it eases off significantly after 10 feet.
Location Follow trail from parking lot down and to the West. To set up a toprope, walk W/NW through several boulders, to the top of cliff where a two bolt anchor will be waiting. Watch out for glass.
Protection Toprope: bolts on top - approach from parking lot. Boulder. Lead: 0.5-3 Camalot.
By P Takeda
May 5, 2007
| Expect SOLID and technical 5.10b on this! |
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 10, 2009
| The fact that the crux comes before you could reasonably get any pro in means that it might be more worthwhile to simply boulder it. While the upper section is tricky, if you can do the start, you'll certainly be able to do the rest.
Also, if toproping, pull the climber's rope to the left of the crack (over a bulge) or else the rope will get into the crack and make life miserable. |
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