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To the Moon Alice
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Alice T 
Sobriety Test 
To the Moon T 

To the Moon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V0 Font: 4

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V0 Font: 4 [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 2, 2007

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the parking lot, walk down and around the most prominent rock, to the West. To the Moon is the crack splitting this West face. Difficult thin hands start leads to a pod, and easier climbing (5.8). Often toproped, but originally established as a boulder problem, as it eases off significantly after 10 feet.

Location 

Follow trail from parking lot down and to the West. To set up a toprope, walk W/NW through several boulders, to the top of cliff where a two bolt anchor will be waiting. Watch out for glass.

Protection 

Toprope: bolts on top - approach from parking lot. Boulder. Lead: 0.5-3 Camalot.


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By P Takeda
May 5, 2007

Expect SOLID and technical 5.10b on this!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 10, 2009

The fact that the crux comes before you could reasonably get any pro in means that it might be more worthwhile to simply boulder it. While the upper section is tricky, if you can do the start, you'll certainly be able to do the rest.

Also, if toproping, pull the climber's rope to the left of the crack (over a bulge) or else the rope will get into the crack and make life miserable.