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To the Moon, Alice 
Urchin, The 
Virga 

To the Moon, Alice 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 30, 2010
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To The Moon Alice! sits high above the left side o...

Description 

This route is one of the extensions to "Blue Moon", and departs from its anchor.

The route has some great moves and excellent rock. Unfortuantely they are both guarded by a 10' band of heinous choss that is held together by a mixture of rat feces and swallow's nest. This would merit a bomb if the upper bit weren't so much better. Still, best to avoid this until you are truly desparate for something new, and definitely do not climb it on a crowded day. It may be possible to traverse in from "Cutthroat" to avoid the choss band.

Warm up on Blue Moon's greasy slopers, then carefully move left onto the choss-coverd ledge for a brief rest. This is a good place to re-consider your route choice one last time. Once the belayer's helmet is secure, head straight up the wall to the sketchy horizontal break. Clip a dubious bolt at the lip, then mantel onto the nice flowstone panel. A few comfortized pockets lead up the multi-colored slab that slowly steepens, culminating in a pumpy crux just before reaching the finger crack on the left.


Location 

Heads straight up from the top of Blue Moon.


Protection 

Bolts, helmet, 2BA above 1st & 2nd pitches. A double lower will be required to reach the ground. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.



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