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Redgarden - Tower One
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart 
To RP or not to Be 
Untouchables, The 
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Ytrid Deed, The 

To RP or not to Be 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Derek Hersey
Page Views: 2,766
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 12, 2003
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  • Description 

    This is Derek's Eldo masterpiece left of the third pitch of the Doub/Griffith. There has always been some confusion as to where the pitch goes due to the to licheny nature of the face, but once you figure out where it is, you can't miss it.

    We climbed Superslab to the belay below the crux pitch and, clipping the bolt up on Superslab as a directional, lowered straight down the pitch (80 feet) to an obvious starting foothold just left of the arete. For reference, this pitch (and foothold) is reached by traversing around the corner about 20 below the two bolts and the pin that protect the 11a crux on the third pitch of the Doub-Griffith.

    Hand traverse left on a pocket band from the foothold (juts out of a purple break, the third striation on the wall when seen from a distance), slotting in a sideways nut. Hard moves take you up and left to a small stance (sling a horn out left). Move straight up the very obtuse corner system (more of a bowl) on small, positive edges, slotting RPs as you go, and climbing generally about 10 feet left of the Doub-Griffith arete. A couple of the RPs seemed pretty good, others were just body weight. Expect long runouts.

    We did this pitch in headpoint style (toprope rehearsal, gear placed on lead), labelled by some on this site as "stupid" and "self-serving," but it was the only way I, as a tourist in Derek's world, would get to experience this incredible route. So no, we didn't match or better the first-ascent style (Derek pre-inspected the pitch on rappel, then led it), but we did get a bit of chalk on the holds. Whether you choose to ground-up lead this route, pre-inspect it, or toprope it, you won't be disappointed. This is one of the best vertical face climbs in Eldo.


    Protection 

    Double set of RPs, thin slings or perlon for a horn.



    Comments on To RP or not to Be Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 3, 2003

    AC (or Samet),

    Would you be so kind as to describe with a bit more detail how one could get to the start of this pitch from Doub-Griffith or Super Slab. I would greatly appreciate it.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 18, 2004

    If you were coming to the base of the pitch from Superslab, the easiest way would be this: Lead Pitch One of Superslab (5.10+) to the sling belay at the base of the left-facing corner. Climb the corner (5.6/7) to its end, then, before engaging in the 5.9 crux of this pitch, set a belay at a small ledge on the right. From here, you'd traverse due left around the corner, probably 20 feet from your belay, under the bolts and pin protecting the 11a pitch of Doub-Griffith, and you'd be there.

    Up, up and away.

    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 10, 2007

    Uuummmmmm, so. This thing seems really good. Possibly the most heinous string of marginal R.P.s imaginable up a magnificent face. Still needs a little more brushing, it has grown a bit of lichen in key areas since the Matt and Tim repeat era. Gonna be good to go for the Spring though for all interested......; )

    By Brad G
    From: Yosemite and else where
    Dec 29, 2012

    Does anyone know if it's seen an ascent since Samet and Kemple?

    By Ian Cavanaugh
    Jan 24, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a X

    The climbing is amazing. There is plenty of chalk on the holds, and it's all cleaned up for anyone looking to get on this classic route.