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The Grotto
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AC Devil Dog 
Chicken Ranch Bingo 
Flight Simulator 
Go with the Flow 
Gyro Gearloose 
Hole in the Wall 
Journey to Find the Sun 
Men's Crisis Center 
Moss Critique 
Prime Directive 
Snake Bite 
Table Manners 
Table Manners - Left 
Three Fingered Jack 
To Pin or Not To Be 

To Pin or Not To Be 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 29, 2002
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This is a line of two thin cracks to climbs just right of the columny A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d).

Using the bolts to climb this route will add a demension of interest, as the bolts are shared between this and The Moss Critique (the route immediately right of it) and are a bit of a reach to the right of the climb.

Think chimneying without the chimney and this will be your route.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

I wouldn't trad lead this, but if you're feeling psychotic, you could using small (up to 1") friends and nuts.

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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 6, 2009

Followed up this one, but I'd consider leading it. Small gear can be found between bolts. One hard - solid 5.11 move low to the ground at the first bolt requires a very high left foot.

The remainder of the route felt like sustained 5.10+. Lots of friction, small crimps and some stemming. You can find some good rests by using the flared dihedral on the left, a few spots allow for hands free rests by lying back on the wall of the dihedral.

A little mossy - but the features that you need to climb the route are mostly clean.

By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 27, 2014

A nice technical route that's worth checking out. It's well protected and a reasonable lead. Thin bouldery moves between solid stances. Supplement the bolts with cams from 0.6"-1". The route treads left of the bolt line for the most part and is free of moss. If you find yourself peddling on vegetation - reconsider your position.