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 ADVANCED
The Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AC Devil Dog S 
Bandito T,TR 
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 
Flight Simulator S 
Go with the Flow T 
Granted T 
Gyro Gearloose T,TR 
Hole in the Wall T,TR 
Journey to Find the Sun S 
Men's Crisis Center T,S 
Moss Critique S 
Prime Directive S 
Rawhide T,TR 
Snake Bite T,TR 
Squealer T,S 
Table Manners T,TR 
Table Manners - Left T,TR 
Three Fingered Jack T 
To Pin or Not To Be T,S 

To Pin or Not To Be 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 730
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a line of two thin cracks to climbs just right of the columny A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d).

Using the bolts to climb this route will add a demension of interest, as the bolts are shared between this and The Moss Critique (the route immediately right of it) and are a bit of a reach to the right of the climb.

Think chimneying without the chimney and this will be your route.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

I wouldn't trad lead this, but if you're feeling psychotic, you could using small (up to 1") friends and nuts.


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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 6, 2009

Followed up this one, but I'd consider leading it. Small gear can be found between bolts. One hard - solid 5.11 move low to the ground at the first bolt requires a very high left foot.

The remainder of the route felt like sustained 5.10+. Lots of friction, small crimps and some stemming. You can find some good rests by using the flared dihedral on the left, a few spots allow for hands free rests by lying back on the wall of the dihedral.

A little mossy - but the features that you need to climb the route are mostly clean.
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 27, 2014

A nice technical route that's worth checking out. It's well protected and a reasonable lead. Thin bouldery moves between solid stances. Supplement the bolts with cams from 0.6"-1". The route treads left of the bolt line for the most part and is free of moss. If you find yourself peddling on vegetation - reconsider your position.