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Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart 
Anthill Direct 
Archer McLanahan 
Back in Black 
Backstroke 
Backtalk 
Black Top 
Blackwalk 
Book of Numbers 
Bulge Indirect 
Bulge, The 
C'est La Fin 
C'est La Morte 
C'est La Vie 
Chromium Shore 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
Continue-us 
Crack Variation 
Desdichado 
Dessert 
East Overhang 
East Side 
Edge of Night, The 
Exodus 
Flakes, The 
Genesis 
Genuine Risk Takers 
High Noon 
Horizontal Beginnings 
Je T'Aime 
La Vie d' Pansey 
Le Boomerang 
Left Side of Roark, The 
Mental Cruelty 
Night 
Noggin 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) 
Original Anthill 
PA's Variation 
Pansee Sauvage 
Pilgrim 
Pseudo Sidetrack 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Redguard 
Restless Nights 
Semi-Wild 
Semi-Wild Slab 
Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
Whistle Stop, The 
Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

To Night 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Reveley and John Ruger
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Sep 23, 2001
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  • Description 

    This route is a great way to access the belay on top of Night or Back in Black etc. Begins with Pseudo Sidetrack up and left on an obvious ramp to a belay at a small tree(bolts). To Night takes of almost straight right of this belay. Hand traverse left placing the Lowe-Ball and other small crappy gear. Pull up and right through the overhang (a little scary) and onto the face. From here continue right and then up to the two bolt anchor on Night. To get to the anchor on Back in Black, move right and slightly down from the Night anchor with no pro (about 5.9) This is a short pitch with some questionable rock and definitely questionable gear. Most usefull to access the toprope on Night.


    Protection 

    There is not much pro on this pitch. A red Lowe Ball and small offset Aliens are of use. Bring small gear including RPs.



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    By Brad Bond
    Jul 13, 2002

    I thought this one deserved the "vs" rating, but I guess I could have missed something (like the pro!). A good way to do this route is to continue strait up the right-facing corner above the anchors on Night , which is 9+ s (second pitch of Night?), and then left on the obvious left-leaning crack system (also 9) and up to easier ground. A long, fun and spicy "5.9" outing.