Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This route is a great way to access the belay on top of Night or Back in Black etc. Begins with Pseudo Sidetrack up and left on an obvious ramp to a belay at a small tree(bolts). To Night takes of almost straight right of this belay. Hand traverse left placing the Lowe-Ball and other small crappy gear. Pull up and right through the overhang (a little scary) and onto the face. From here continue right and then up to the two bolt anchor on Night. To get to the anchor on Back in Black, move right and slightly down from the Night anchor with no pro (about 5.9) This is a short pitch with some questionable rock and definitely questionable gear. Most usefull to access the toprope on Night.
There is not much pro on this pitch. A red Lowe Ball and small offset Aliens are of use. Bring small gear including RPs.
I thought this one deserved the "vs" rating, but I guess I could have missed something (like the pro!). A good way to do this route is to continue strait up the right-facing corner above the anchors on Night , which is 9+ s (second pitch of Night?), and then left on the obvious left-leaning crack system (also 9) and up to easier ground. A long, fun and spicy "5.9" outing.