To Night  5.9+ R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Chris Reveley and John Ruger Fixed Hardware:  2 Belay Bolts [details] Submitted By:  Chris Dawson on Sep 23, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This route is a great way to access the belay on top of Night or Back in Black etc. Begins with Pseudo Sidetrack up and left on an obvious ramp to a belay at a small tree(bolts). To Night takes of almost straight right of this belay. Hand traverse left placing the Lowe-Ball and other small crappy gear. Pull up and right through the overhang (a little scary) and onto the face. From here continue right and then up to the two bolt anchor on Night. To get to the anchor on Back in Black, move right and slightly down from the Night anchor with no pro (about 5.9) This is a short pitch with some questionable rock and definitely questionable gear. Most usefull to access the toprope on Night.

Protection 

There is not much pro on this pitch. A red Lowe Ball and small offset Aliens are of use. Bring small gear including RPs.