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The Planet of the Apes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Damned Dirty Apes T,S 
Dr. Zaius T 
I Feel Lonely T 
Law Giver T 
Man Can Be Domesticated T,S 
Nova's Route S 
Simian Survival T,S 
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 

To Hell With The Scarecrows 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: G. Kirchhoff, R. Sugget - August 2012
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 8, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: To Hell With The Scarecrows

Description 

A personal favorite, this is a wild, thrilling, mixed line up an arete and steep face. Big and small edges, a thin crux, and thoughtful climbing make this a good, rewarding route. Turn around now? or say, "TO HELL WITH THE SCARECROWS!"

Follow a thin crack protected by cams. Move up and left towards holds on the arete, clip a bolt, pull the crux, and head up and right to a rest at a hairline crack and small ledge. Protect here with wired stoppers and continue up, passing one more bolt. Finish at a chain anchor.

Intimidating from the ground, this is actually a great, well protected climb.

Location 

This is the second line in The Planet area, its marked buy a striking and thin, parallel crack.

Protection 

Micro cams and nuts, two bolts, and a chain anchor.


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By Roy Suggett
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

VERY cruxy on EVERY move for the first 2/3rds of the route!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.