|The Planet of the Apes
A personal favorite, this is a wild, thrilling, mixed line up an arete and steep face. Big and small edges, a thin crux, and thoughtful climbing make this a good, rewarding route. Turn around now? or say, "TO HELL WITH THE SCARECROWS!"
Follow a thin crack protected by cams. Move up and left towards holds on the arete, clip a bolt, pull the crux, and head up and right to a rest at a hairline crack and small ledge. Protect here with wired stoppers and continue up, passing one more bolt. Finish at a chain anchor.
Intimidating from the ground, this is actually a great, well protected climb.
This is the second line in The Planet area, its marked buy a striking and thin, parallel crack.
Micro cams and nuts, two bolts, and a chain anchor.
To Hell With The Scarecrows
|By Roy Suggett|
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
VERY cruxy on EVERY move for the first 2/3rds of the route!
From: Small Lake, UT
6 hours ago
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.