|Type:||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||G. Kirchhoff, R. Sugget - August 2012|
|Submitted By:||grk10vq on Aug 8, 2012|
|Comments on To Hell With The Scarecrows||Add Comment|
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By Roy Suggett
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
|VERY cruxy on EVERY move for the first 2/3rds of the route!|
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.