All Locations > Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Superstition Mo… > Carney Springs Wall

To Air is Human

Name: To Air is Human
Rating: 2.5

5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Carney Springs Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	De Grazia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Honeymooners P1 Variation, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Honeymooners, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Norton's Notion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	To Air is Human T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Todd Swain & Peggy Buckey 02-1988
Page Views:	1,023 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Gunkswest on Feb 24, 2013
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.

Description

This route climbs the center of the Carney Springs Wall. The approach takes roughly 1-2 hours. The route name memorializes the whippers that were taken on the second pitch.

P1: Start left of the Honeymooners below a slab and just left of a bushy crack. Climb the center of the slab past one bolt to a ramp. Go up right on the ramp past a layback move to a shallow left facing corner on the wall above. Climb this past three bolts (5.10+/11-) to the lower angled face above. Climb pockets past a bolt to a two bolt hanging belay (150 feet).

P2: Climb up left from the belay past two bolts to a short, left facing corner in the wave of rock above. Up the corner to a sloping ledge (bolt), then reach over the wave on "holds." Swing over on the left (crux), then up the face past pockets (TCUs) to a wide crack. Follow the crack up left to a belay ledge and an anchor (60 feet).

Notes: The first bolt on P1 was placed after the FA. All other bolts were placed on the lead. The 3rd bolt on P2 (in the wave) was placed from a hook after some good whippers were taken.