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Sugarloaf, West Face
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TM's Deviation 
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Under the Spreading Atrophy 
West Chimney 

TM's Deviation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TM Herbert
Page Views: 1,775
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Awesome flare that starts the pitch.

Description 

This is either a second pitch to West Chimney or Pony Express. Starts 40' directly south (downhill) of the top of p1 of Pony Express.

Belay in a shady alcove, start up a slick face squeeze with a finger crack on the wall that takes good pro from #2 camalot to finger sizes. Pull out into handcrack and face on good knobs. Turns to lower angle wide fist, with good feet on the face.

Then get down to business as you pull into a squeeze. A helmet will hose you here. There is a good horizontal rail that you can get gear in, which will help keep the rope running outside the crack. My partner somehow got a #4 camalot deep in the crack. I could barely retrieve it with my nut tool.

With your feet on that good rail, commit to the bombay squeeze. My partner led this right side in, I followed left side in. squirm till you hit some thank god rails.

A couple more easier chimney moves lead to pulling over, and easy slab to the top.


Location 

Intimidating looking chimney above and right of Pony Express when facing the rock.


Protection 

full rack plus big gear. 3, 4, and 5 camalots used, you could probably place the 6 if you wanted.



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By Josh Cameron
Jul 17, 2011

This climb will let you know if you're a chimney climber or not. More grueling than technical.

By AndyBG
Mar 26, 2013

Hardest 5.9 I've ever flailed on!

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 19, 2014

The #5 C4 Camalot was clutch at the crux. Couldn't get a #6 in that spot and a #4 would be waaaay back there. It makes the crux light psychologically, but the moves took some sussing. Definitely my favorite wide crack at the Loaf so far!

I didn't bring/place enough slingage and I ran into heinous, almost deal breaking rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch. The climb may be a little tricky that way? I've talked to somebody who apparently breaks it into three pitches, and that may be the way to go.

Placed the #6 shortly before the exit, but that was unnecessary.