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The Gold Wall
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Acid Test Crack AKA Ice Cream Dreams 
An Uncertain Violence 
Black and Sassy 
East Of Eden 
Gold Finger 
Grievous Angel 
King Fissure 
Liquid Sky 
Pacing the Cage 
Rushin' Arete 
Standard Fork's 5.8 
T.L. Bush 
Waterslip Down 

T.L. Bush 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Larry and Tim Coats
Page Views: 1,272
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on May 26, 2006
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Climber working the layback portion of this route.


Another classic 5.10, and a good one for those who don't like jamming.

I thought the first 15' of crimping with no gear was the crux. Bad landing, so don't fall. After that it's a well protected romp on liebacks and jugs.


Look for a 10' clean lieback corner about 40 ft up the wall, the 3rd major corner left of Standard Forks 5.8.


2-3 each green Alien - #2 Camalot, 1 #3 or #3.5 for the start.

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By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

On the first ascent a "lost" technique was used to protect the moves off the ground- a nut toss into the obvious slot. If you still carry hexes, it still works to this day!

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 18, 2008

A great route with a heads up start. It is about 15" of 5.8 climbing with no pro to an atomic bomb proof #3 Camalot when the seam opens into a pod. The lieback is short but fierce. A strong climber could climb it straight on (.75 Camalot size) but I laidback for all I was worth. The remainder of the route climbs from stance to stance with great gear.

Larry - I have been working on my "cam toss" technique, but it just doesn't seem to work that great...