Tits Up 

Four routes on the wall, from left to right: Muscle Beach (11b), Afterburner (12b), Tits Up (12b), and Hot Beach (12a).

This route and Afterburner immediately to the left are both three-star routes in my book, stellar moves all the way to the chains. The left is a bit harder than the right. They are shown in William Prehm's photo topo Cactus Left Two. On that photo they are denoted Tits Up = Unamed A and Hot Beach = Unamed B.

Afterburner starts just left of "Tits Up" and crosses left of Muscle Beach. It should be added to the database: 12b, two stars. Very different from Tits Up, though. It is more sustained and obvious, whereas Tits Up's crux is mysterious and puzzling.

I thought this would let up a bit after the initial crux around the 2nd bolt... not the case. Hard and sustained all the way to the finish. Very thin, very technical. Amazing route.

I have to disagree with the description which states that you climb exclusively on micro thin edges. I can only think of one maybe two holds that qualify. The upper crux has some small holds that you can't skip but the feet are good at that point. The rest of the beta came together in a manner that did not require pulling on small holds. They were there. I just didn't have to use them. This route was a classic power endurance route for me with four decent jug holds to recover on. This is one of my all time favorites at Shelf so far. Don't let the description dissuade you from getting on this route. I found smaller holds on The Gym Arete and Heavy Weather.

Hard and sustained are accurate descriptors. This route is very technical but entirely worth the effort. A bit of awkward climbing in the upper section (after bolt 4 and 5), but it is a very nice climb for the grade. I'm a 12a climber, and I'd put this climb at the top of some of my favorite projects.