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Cactus Cliff
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Tits Up 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Richard Aschert and Dave Dangle, 1991
Page Views: 5,926
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 24, 2001
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Early morning cranking on Tits Up. September 2012....

Description 

The route between Afterburner and Hot Beach. The climbing is exclusively on micro-thin edges that inspire either abject hate or a fascination with the intricate footwork. I love these routes. But, again, a contrast: in a fit of unbridled enthusiasm I once sicced Jim Garber on this, and as I recall, he invoked enough colorful language describing my wretched propensity for sand-bagging to make a sailor proud. Think thin and continuous with finesse in the footwork. This is well bolted and won't kill anyone.


Protection 

11 bolts.



Photos of Tits Up Slideshow Add Photo
Cactus Cliff - Left (2). <br /> <br />Errata: Route 31 is Tits Up, Route 32 is Hot Beach.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2).

Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
Tits Up is just left of the red streak, and Hot Beach is just to the right.  The climber farthest right is on Wadsworth Boulevard.
Tits Up is just left of the red streak, and Hot Be...
Spencer approaching the chains.
Spencer approaching the chains.
Tits Up (c) Jesse Ryan 2001.
Tits Up (c) Jesse Ryan 2001.
Kevin - tits up.
Kevin - tits up.
Comments on Tits Up Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 9, 2001

Four routes on the wall, from left to right: Muscle Beach (11b), Afterburner (12b), Tits Up (12b), and Hot Beach (12a).

By Jesse Ryan
Nov 12, 2001
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This route and Afterburner immediately to the left are both three-star routes in my book, stellar moves all the way to the chains. The left is a bit harder than the right. They are shown in William Prehm's photo topo Cactus Left Two. On that photo they are denoted Tits Up = Unamed A and Hot Beach = Unamed B.

By bb
Jan 2, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Afterburner starts just left of "Tits Up" and crosses left of Muscle Beach. It should be added to the database: 12b, two stars. Very different from Tits Up, though. It is more sustained and obvious, whereas Tits Up's crux is mysterious and puzzling.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jan 18, 2010

I thought this would let up a bit after the initial crux around the 2nd bolt... not the case. Hard and sustained all the way to the finish. Very thin, very technical. Amazing route.

By JoeValley
Jan 24, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I have to disagree with the description which states that you climb exclusively on micro thin edges. I can only think of one maybe two holds that qualify. The upper crux has some small holds that you can't skip but the feet are good at that point. The rest of the beta came together in a manner that did not require pulling on small holds. They were there. I just didn't have to use them. This route was a classic power endurance route for me with four decent jug holds to recover on. This is one of my all time favorites at Shelf so far. Don't let the description dissuade you from getting on this route. I found smaller holds on The Gym Arete and Heavy Weather.

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013

Hard and sustained are accurate descriptors. This route is very technical but entirely worth the effort. A bit of awkward climbing in the upper section (after bolt 4 and 5), but it is a very nice climb for the grade. I'm a 12a climber, and I'd put this climb at the top of some of my favorite projects.