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BETA PHOTO: Dale gettin' a lap in on first ascent day for Tira...
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
Nearly a sport route, Tiramisu is great for aspiring 5.7 trad leaders, or, even jaded old timers looking for a nice route. Crux is a thin move past the upper crack that is followed for a short distance. Requires either a 70 or 80 meter rope to rappel, or, down climb the low angle slot to the chimney (take care!) if you have a single 60 meter rope. Also note that you cannot lower a climber to the ground with a single 60 meter rope (so, bad candidate for a TR too).
Take the well-built and obvious trail to the base of the north end of the west face of Fence Line Rock. Start up a fairly easy chimney to the right of the staging area for the routes on that face. Look for the line of bolts to the right of Crème Brûlée (face climb above the thin flake at the entrance to said low angle chimney/slot). Follow the low angle slot up (protection available as small cams) and clip the first bolt on the large hold.
9 lead bolts and medium to large nuts and a couple of medium cams for the crack after the fifth bolt (completely reduces the run out between the fifth and sixth bolt: pro it up!). Bolted anchor located above the final face climbing to the right of the other bolted anchor (which will probably be more visible). Note that both anchors are more than 30 meters from the ground, but, a single 60m rope "could" be used to rappel if you don't mind down climbing the low angle slot and short chimney at the start of the climb. Please watch your rope ends and be cafeful if you rappel on a single 60m rope on this and all climbs on this face!
BETA PHOTO: Patty clipping the first bolt on Tiramisu (she's n...
By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I thought Tiramisu was a little harder than Creme Brulee but both were very fun.