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Finger of Fate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
BINO BOOK T 
Open Book T 
TIPTOES T 

TIPTOES 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: Shawn Deitrick on Jan 25, 2013

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Tiptoes goes up just right of the arete across fro...

Description 

Pitch 1 Starts at the same place as Bino's Book, look for the pine trees. Start just right of the trees. Once the trees are reached work to the left. Find the little book section before the arete. Find the ledge to setup your anchor.
Pitch 2 Start making your way up the book. Look back and forth for placements. Stay to right of the arete. Keep climbing up the face there will be an anchor to the right. Bypass that one and continue upward until there is another anchor system with a piton.
Pitch 3 Go straight up form the anchor in the corner system right above the belay. The pitch will take a left at the top of the corner follow the ramp to the left. On the way left you should run into a old piton then continue up until a ledge is reached at the top of the ramp.
Pitch 4 This is the crux of the climb and where it gets its name. Start out in this nice hand crack around the corner from the belay. The crack continues for a ways until another corner is reached. From here things get a little thin, but it is positve friction. Work back and forth between the crack on the left and the sloping edge on the right. It will finish at the notch on the Open Book route.
Pitch 5 Go up the double cracks on the face. Once the top of the face is reached the pitch will continue on to the slab before the summit block. This is 5.8 climbing, good fun!
Pitch 6 You'll do the same as the rest of the routes on the Finger for the summit block.

Location 

It is on the north face of the Finger. Start just right of the trees on the face low right. Then the decent from the summit rappel down the west side to the ridge then down to the pine tree. If you have a 70m rope you can make this in one rappel, if you have a 60m it will have to be made in two. Look to left on the face there is another anchor set up. From here the gully can be reached.

Protection 

A standard rack with extra's in the finger to hand size cams and make sure to bring a 3 and 3.5 for the anchor on pitch 3. Make sure to bring plenty of slings.


Photos of TIPTOES Slideshow Add Photo
Don Cambell after the hike back to Hell Roaring lake. After we climbed Tiptoes.
Don Cambell after the hike back to Hell Roaring la...

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