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Pull the bouldery moves through the roof to the left of the start for Locamotive breath/Great Expectations. (crux) follow the left facing corner to the top, sticking to the thin face holds.
Usually Topropped. Tread carefully if leading.
BETA PHOTO: Another angle of Tiptoe
|By Matt Baer|
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a X
Pulling the roof is fun once you find the key holds, then up a corner to some beautiful face climbing in the sun on some fun crimps!
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 5, 2012
It has been freed multiple times. I think that at worst it is a "R" not an "X." (Dave Fasulo has it as an "R" in his guidebook and he is usually conservative on gear ratings.) Although I may have traversed over to the crack on Locomotive Breath for gear. Really fun overhanging start followed by some great face climbing.
FA: Rick Murnane, Bob Connolly, November 1979.