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Trashcan Rock - West Face
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B-2 T 
B-3 T 
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Black Eye T 
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Cranny T 
Eschar T 
Eyesore T 
Eyestrain T 
History TR 
Karpkwitz T 
Profundity T 
Simpatico T 
Tiptoe T 
Trough, The T 
Tulip T 
Walkway T 

Tiptoe 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Stahl and Mona Stahl, October 1972
Page Views: 2,464
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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Neale below Tiptoe

Description 

Tiptoe up the crystals protruding from the thin dike in the middle of the face between B-1 and B-2. There are three bolts, and no real need for anything else.

Belay from a strong stance in a niche up and left from the top of the climb, then walk off to the north.


Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 3" for the anchor

If you start at the base of B2 (slightly left) you can probably get a piece there before stepping onto the face.



Photos of Tiptoe Slideshow Add Photo
Tiptoe (5.7+) runs up the face between the two cracks
BETA PHOTO: Tiptoe (5.7+) runs up the face between the two cra...
Nathan with me on belay. The 1st of our ROWCC 10 Climbs in a Day with Agina.
Nathan with me on belay. The 1st of our ROWCC 10 C...
Comments on Tiptoe Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 19, 2013
By Brian Reynolds
Nov 28, 2003
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a pretty fun slab climb. It looks steep, but nice protrusions appear on the dikes (oops, I mean "women in comfortable shoes") everytime you need them.

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 29, 2003

One of my favorite leads in the Monument.

By Woody Stark
Feb 9, 2004

In my opinion it's an eight.

By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A solid 5.7 in my opinion. Bitchin stairway type footholds with nice transfer moves to the next set of stairs with a commiting move to easier ground. Be mindful of your anchors at the top as the rock is quite chossy and untrustworthy. Long slings around the boulders at the top for the anchors are defintely reccomended.

By Bo Johnston
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super route with little effort but getting down. Great practice route for Snake Dike in the Valley! LOL

By namascar
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Interesting formation

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

About halfway up, this follows an interesting quartz extrusion.

By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Cool dike!

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 1, 2007

Not a pure slab route like it appears to be from the ground. There are a couple friction moves, but it's mainly face climbing on square edges of the dikes. Fun route.

By 72HW
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My friend David led this one and I was fine doing it as a TR.

Boy, you think jamming a piece under that flake before the first bolt will help your head, then you see that sucker bend!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 24, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If Profundity is "R" then this climb is too.

By KraigP
Nov 18, 2008

fun unique climb. A lot of beginners at trashcan but still fun to visit

By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An ok route. Very similar to many climbs at Mt Rushmore in the Black Hills, SD. Would go as 5.8 there. BTW... thats not quartz on the route, its feldspar (sorry, the geologist cant let that go unsaid!).

By Brandontyrrell
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If your are at trash can rock, you should climb this. its pretty fun !

By attila
Feb 16, 2010

With the footwork this climb demands, this is a perfectly named route. All holds are super solid, except the flake below the first bolt.

By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great warmup at JTree; one of my favorites, and do it every time I go to Trashcan Rock. If it were longer, it would be outstanding and worthy of 4 stars; I give it 3 stars as it is...

By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Feb 20, 2012

Lead this today, I thought by adding a placement of a Metolius Master Cam before the 1st bolt under the flake made it allot easier to focus.

By Rodger Raubach
Apr 19, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I have always used a wired stopper slotted behind the flake, and it's less likely to damage it should a fall occur. I'd say this is a PG13 move up to the first bolt; not really a death fall possible at the start, but a great leg or ankle breaker.