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 ADVANCED
King Dome - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arturo's Special T 
Aztec Twostep T 
Bottom of the Barrel T 
Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 
Friction Impossible T 
Key to the Kingdom T 
Magic Kingdome T 
Mission Impossible T 
Tiptoe To Topanga T 
Trashman Roof T 
Watercloset, The T 

Tiptoe To Topanga 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines & Patty Kline, March 1998, FL: unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Steven Powers on Dec 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This climb is in between Arturo's Special (5.8) and Mission Impossible (5.11b). It's good 'ol dome home Josh friction bumps, gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, was recently bolted by unknown suspects and is a great lead.

Protection 

six bolts, two bolt anchor/rap (all you need is a rack of draws)


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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A well-protected addition to the area that features continuous climbing for most of it's length. Pro to 1" might be desired to reach the first bolt. The rock quality is on the crunchy side, but more traffic will help to clean it up. One star out of five (maybe two stars if it cleans up more).
By Murf
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Found myself tending to the left of the bolts on occasion. Maybe I'm not tuned up on JT friction, but I thought this was more like 10b/c (much like Chris).
By Rolf R
From: BC
Dec 6, 2014

I agree 10b/c. Slopers , good footwork required. Well bolted but still feels heady due to the insecure climbing on slabby holds.