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Witches' Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
It's My Swamp 
Nala 
No Direction Home 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone 
Scarecrow 
Teenage Terrorists 
Tese 
Tipskin Jihad 
War is Love 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

Tipskin Jihad 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen, Rolo Garibotti, Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer is nice
Page Views: 968
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 19, 2008
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Terrorized tips after a burn on the route.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the second route in from the right (so, third from the left) on the north face of Witches' Tower. It climbs directly out the wall above the Vee between the two big blocks, to join the anchors on Teenage Terrorists. Sustained and bouldery down low to mellower climbing up high.


Location 

This ascends the center of the north face of Witches' Tower.


Protection 

Five bolts -- either stick-clip, or pre-clip the first bolt on the way down from one of the other routes. (Good Beta: warm up your fingers on War is Love, the 11c/d just left, then pre-rig this one on the way down.)



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By Mark Wiranowski
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

The climbing through the first three bolts is very continuous and a very hard onsight. It helps to have the belayer stay close to the wall, b/c otherwise the leader swings into the rope.