||Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
|Original: || YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen, Rolo Garibotti, Bob D'Antonio|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Summer is nice|
|Page Views: ||1,217|
|Submitted By: ||Pinklebear on Jun 19, 2008|
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Terrorized tips after a burn on the route.
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This is the second route in from the right (so, third from the left) on the north face of Witches' Tower. It climbs directly out the wall above the Vee between the two big blocks, to join the anchors on Teenage Terrorists
. Sustained and bouldery down low to mellower climbing up high.
This ascends the center of the north face of Witches' Tower.
Five bolts -- either stick-clip, or pre-clip the first bolt on the way down from one of the other routes. (Good Beta: warm up your fingers on War is Love, the 11c/d just left, then pre-rig this one on the way down.)
By Mark Wiranowski
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The climbing through the first three bolts is very continuous and a very hard onsight. It helps to have the belayer stay close to the wall, b/c otherwise the leader swings into the rope.
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better.