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17 - This and That Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cramming T 
Said and Done T 
Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 

Tips 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a A0 [details]
FA: FA: Bachar & Kauk, '75 w/ A.0 start, FFA Jonny Woodward and Rob Ward, October 1982
Page Views: 3,754
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Lizzy on Tips. It feels much steeper than it looks...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Brutal face moves start past a bolt are free @ 5.12a (ha) but it is easier to use an aider to cheat to get to the crack. Really sound finger crack (albeit a little flaky circa 1994) lead up to anchors.

1980's photos of Peter Croft soloing the route float around climbing rags of the era. One of the best finger cracks in the Valley off the ground (a must do- please someone post a photo!), but lacks only a good start (being the crack does not touch down).

Location 

up a semi steep hill through trees to the base of the wall.

Protection 

bolt, small stoppers and tcu's


Photos of Tips Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The webbing ladder to avoid the super thin 5.12 st...
The webbing ladder to avoid the super thin 5.12 st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Croft free solo  Photo taken by Greg Epperso...
Peter Croft free solo Photo taken by Greg Epperso...

Comments on Tips Add Comment
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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Charlie Porter, by 1975
FFA(W/A0 start): John Bachar, Ron Kauk, 1975
FFA: Jonny Woodward, Ron Kauk, 1985
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 29, 2014

Tips Thread
By melonhead
Dec 27, 2015

The Yosemite guide has always had incorrect FFA info. For the record.....
FFA. Jonny Woodward, Rob Ward. October 1982.
The free start is a finger traverse from the right.
Edit: Orphaned, thanks for changing the FFA information above. I will leave my comment here for the time being as confirmation.
jw

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