Tips on aiding faster? 2.5 hours to lead a pitch sucks
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I love aid climbing and I want to switch from a big wall theorist to a big wall climber. The first pitch on the prow took me 2.5 hours to lead this past friday and was a disappointing way to start a weekend. |
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I'm no expert but I've aided a bit. I like 3 etriers. One on each adjustable daisy through the same oval biner. Place your high piece, clip the daisy/etrier to it then clip the free etrier into that. It's easier to step up with the second etrier on the high piece. Also easier to top step with two etriers on that piece. FWIW, I use BD oval wires for on each of those aider w/ etrier and the free etrier. |
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If the route is suited for them and you're comfortable using them, cam hooks will make you fly up the wall. I don't think they ever left my aiders when I did the prow. |
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I know I waste time with the adjustables by pulling them in and then having to reset them out again for the next placement. |
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randy88fj62 wrote:I didn't place any nuts on the first pitch and need to work on placing more passive pro.There's plenty to say and I'll let others say it. In this specific instance, (and with full understanding that many will disagree for their own reasons) placing more passive gear is NOT going to make you move faster. Reasons: 1. Passive gear that's been weighted is going to take your second longer to clean because they'll need to stop jugging to work it out. With cams, they reach it, grab it and go. . . . . a. Of course, there's also the trick of place cam, use cam, get above cam, retrieve cam, replace cam with nut that's now not been weighted unless you fall. But then there's still the issue of time, see below. 2. Every cam placed is more weight off your rack than a nut placement. Need that cam later for a crucial placement, you can always lower down to it and retrieve it and jug back to your high point. (This happens less often that our fears would have us believe) 3. I personally rack all my cams on their own biner so with that in mind, placing a cam is grab, place, go, whereas placing a nut is grab, find correct nut on biner full of nuts, place nut, unclip nut-filled biner, grab new biner/draw, clip new biner/draw to nut, go. Caveat: Obviously you use the best piece for the placement and if a nut fits the placement better than a cam then you go with the nut. |
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randy88fj62 wrote:I know I waste time with the adjustables by pulling them in and then having to reset them out again for the next placement. Not sure I am ready to ditch them and go back to regular chains and a fifi. hmm.No need to ditch them as adjustables are not intrinsically slower, it's the process you outline above that makes them slow. I use adjustables and a fifi. On slabby terrain you don't even need your fifi or to muck about with your adjustables, just step to the very top of the steps and lean into the rock, repeat. On less than vertical terrain (but not slab) you never really need to shorten your daisies, just step up in your ladders until your fifi can clip in. On vertical terrain, you just need to prep yourself to make multiple steps up the ladder in one fluid motion until your fifi can reach. On more than vertical terrain, don't worry about time, that stuff is exhausting and if you creep up the ladders on each cinching of the adjustable, that's fine as that's what they're there for. |
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What Kevin said. Passive pro is fine and all but Kevin is right, takes way too much time. Even when non aid climbing I try to place cams whenever I can for speed and ease of cleaning. I have a few partners who pride themselves on good nut craft but following their pitches is a pain in the butt and takes much longer to clean. It's a good skill to have but keep it in your tool chest until you absolutely need it. |
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Kevin Mokracek wrote:I keep a cam hook and a regular hook on each aider depending on the route. Seems to work good for me.I stopped doing this when I started FAing instead of doing other people's routes but really, having a medium camhook, a hook, AND a rivet hanger permattached to each ladder is a great way to keep yourself thinking in terms of hooking and camhooking and will immensely speed your process up. I def recommend it. (But remove them when jugging because they're a pain in that situation.) Image here Climbing article (Obviously, don't carry everything they say to in the linked article as that's overkill and I know NO ONE that would keep that much permanently attached like that. - although, maybe for desert walls with miles of cam jugging...) (I use a quicklink to attach everything to the top of the ladder to keep the ladder closer to the hook and I don't recommend the webbing loop if you're going to be switching off leads due to the issue with jugging with them.) |
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Time, time, time and more time in your aiders. You need to learn how to move in your aiders and you need a catalogue of placements in your brain to pull from. |
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So I didn't see this mentioned but it sure sped me up a lot. Wear comfortable climbing shoes and don't be afraid to step out of the aiders and climb. Once I started doing this I realized I don't need aiders for a lot of pitches that are C1 or C1+. Just climb until it gets hard, then start grabbing your pieces. Fifi in if you need a rest, clip the ladder on if you really need it. Once you're out of the hard part, free climb again. |
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Mark knows ... more time |
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There's a 2 pitch bolt ladder in my area. I plan on time trials with different setups. First pitch is positive walk up slop and second pitch is severely overhanging so I should have a good balance of terrain types. |
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I found that switching from a system with just traditional daisies to one using two adjustable daisies and one traditional daisy made things MUCH faster for me. And depending on how splitter the cracks you're aiding are, then getting good at leapfrogging cam hooks for upward progress with your gear used primarily as protection is a big time saver as well |
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On the first pitch of the prow I placed only micronuts up that 5.11 seam. I'm not good at aid climbing, but I think a big time saver can just be placing gear and stepping on it - not necessarily making the perfect placement everytime, just something you can stand on. |
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Mark Hudon wrote:Time, time, time and more time in your aiders. You need to learn how to move in your aiders and you need a catalogue of placements in your brain to pull from.Yeah but do you even aid bro? ;) |
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As is often the case in climbing, video yourself and spot where you are not fluid. There are no doubt many alternative ways/systems, some faster than others, and even adjustable daises can be used at a reasonable pace, but the key is to use whatever system you are using well. This means videoing yourself and looking at the footage and asking, was that bit fluid? If not, practice that bit in isolation until it is. |
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I agree with the Kevins and Mark. Just focus on getting in your aiders and climbing up them until you're ready to place your next piece. I think part of the problem that some people experience, particularly nowdays is an over reliance on daisy chains, adjustable fifis and the like. A daisy chain is to hang off of if the pitch is awkward, or as a leash to keep you from dropping your aiders when you're bounce testing your piece. |