Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.
Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crack system and belay below a weird inverted v-slot. Save a couple hand-size cams for this belay and you'll be happy.175' 5.11-
Pitch 2: The BIZZNESS! climb up through the v-slot, strenuous 5.10, then breathe deep and send the overhanging fingers in the corner above. Pass one great rest, into thin hands and a large belay ledge, with a cave just above. I can't say enough good things about this pitch, simply spectacular!!! 100' 5.11++
Pitch 3: Pull a weird thin move into the cave 10+,and figure out the offwidth/fistcrack roof out of it. Follow this crack with hands to a ledge, and climb a huge thin flake 5.8 towards some horrid loose shit. CAREFULLY stem around the loose blocks (5.9), marginal gear below (save a #3 or #4 Camalot for just below this section) and pull on to a large ledge PHEW! 125' 5.11- (note rap anchors here)
Now leave the rack and scramble gingerly up to the cool summit. There is an interesting summit register up there to check out. The raps are fairly straightforward: three double raps down from the top of pitch 3, toward the west, and down the Langdon route.
A great obscure tower route, well done by Pennings and the late Doug Hall.
There are no fixed anchors or gear on this route so keep that in mind for the rack.bring two sets of cams to 3 inches, and extra fingers, extra thin hands, and one or two 4 inch pieces.two sixty meter ropes to rappel.
Psyched. Early in the 3rd pitch
|By Jim Howe|
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 16, 2007
for extra "fingers" gear, think tips, I found tcus 1-2 and .3 camalots best for the crux pitch. #4 camalot was used only to protect the 5.8 flake, but #3 camalots seemed to always come in handy. I could'nt figure out the moves on the 5.10+ face and pulled through after flogging about there. Crux is pretty standard (but stout) desert fare but their are several puzzle problems scattered along the route, which makes it fun.
|By John Steiger|
Apr 28, 2012
Yeah, that "weird thin" 5.10+ move to get into the cave on the third pitch can bite you; I came closer to pitchin' off there than any other move on the route. Rap bolts need replacing, some are pretty scary, and most of the webbing is looking pretty spent (as of 3/25/12). One of Utah's classics, IMO.
From: Carlsbad CA
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
2 70m ropes brings the raps down to 2. Or, if you opt out to do the last pitch, 1 rap with double 70m brings you to the ground... BARELY. tie knots, lots of loose stuff to knock off on the rap.