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4. Moby Grape Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Hallow T 
Manhedral T 
Moby Grape T 
Moonshadow T 
Peppy's Face S 
Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 
Reppys Crack T 
Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 
Union Jack T 
Vertigo T 
White Iceberg, The T 

Tip Trip (Formally 11a) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,703
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Sep 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: This route got damaged during the recent Conn dike...

Description 

Formally a thin desperate but well protected crack climb this route has been hit by rockfall the past two freeze/thaw seasons. What it turned into is an excellent moderate cragging pitch with wonderful climbing throughout. This could be a popular route to jump on if waiting for mobey.

Thin moves off the ground (Probably hard for the grade) to a stance. Place small pro and break right onto brand new rock then a slightly chossy ledge. Layback up the beautiful brand new left facing corner joining a shallow corner and hand crack to the anchor. Rap or lower with a single 60m


Old description: Excellent crack climbing off the ground gains a stance below the crux. Stay left using the face and crack, or stay right and climb the crack direct, (a little harder) up to a ledge. From here aim for a shallow corner flanked by a nice short hand crack (5.8). Belay from fixed pins above.

Location 

Start about 50 feet south of Vertigo /Union Jack. This trip starts up a thin crack that splits a "mini buttress".

Protection 

Protects very well, small nuts, cams to hand size. Rap with a single 60m rope.


Photos of Tip Trip (Formally 11a) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick cleaning a little rubble out if the new corne...
Nick cleaning a little rubble out if the new corne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tip Trip
Tip Trip
Rock Climbing Photo: At the pin anchor
At the pin anchor
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice trip on a misty morning
A nice trip on a misty morning
Rock Climbing Photo: Tip Trip
Tip Trip
Rock Climbing Photo: A topo I borrowed from Lee
BETA PHOTO: A topo I borrowed from Lee

Comments on Tip Trip (Formally 11a) Add Comment
Show which comments
By burlap submariner
Sep 15, 2011

Is this the very thin crack you pass walking north past vertigo before you get to "the zone" while walking towards the weissners area?
By Michael Z.
Sep 15, 2011

I added some photos that should help with the location. I'm not familiar with the crack you mentioned but I'll take a look. Any info?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 16, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think it is case
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun and short, easy for the grade.

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