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Tip-A-Canoe 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,629
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: 9 Tip-A-Canoe 5.7 9a Variant 5.7

Description 

A made-up name, but pretty good climbing.

Apparently the Ruckmans made up the name Tip-a-Canoe for their guidebook. It was either named something else or not named previously.

Anyway, it was a dirty, loose, and potentially dangerous route (dangerous primarily to the belayer). However, it has since been cleaned of most larger, loose items, and is now a pretty fun climb.

Start to the right of the bolted routes on the right-side slab in the obvious corner crack. Follow the crack around a large flake and then into a corner where the crack dries up. There is still a good cam placement, and also a large horn that could be slung. Arrive at a narrow ledge and follow one of two options:

One: Stay in the corner, climb around a large flake and arrive at the ending section where the corner crack is now an offwidth. There is protection to be had in small cracks on the face so large pieces are not necessary. Bear left at the top and arrive at the belay location.

Two: Traverse left a bit and follow a broken crack system up to the belay location.

Build an anchor (a triple-length sling is very useful) and belay the second up.

Location 

Scramble up loose stuff to the right side of Black Rose. There are two bolted routes on the right slab; Tip-a-Canoe is to the right of these.

Walk off north (or more accurately, down-climb some 4th class terrain to the north).

Protection 

There is bomber pro until about half-way (medium nuts, small cams; then the flake cracks temporarily dry up leaving a good, medium cam placement and a horn for a marginal sling.

After the ledge good pro again abounds in the corner crack.

Save gear for an anchor at the top. I used a small nut, a #3 Camalot, and a triple-length sling around a very large horn.


Photos of Tip-A-Canoe Slideshow Add Photo
Perin Blanchard on <em>Tip-a-canoe</em>. <br /> <br />Photo by John Ross.
Perin Blanchard on Tip-a-canoe. Photo by John Ros...

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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 20, 2008

This route has been extensively cleaned since I first climbed it. The above description now reflects climbing the corner in its cleaned state. My original description is below. I haven't yet climbed the variation since it was cleaned so I don't know how the pro is, although it looks pretty good (you'll probably want something like a #4 C4).

Old Description


Loose. Dirty. Marginal pro. What's not to like?

Tip-a-Canoe climbs the corner on the right end of the Black Rose area. The route is mostly hand-sized cracks under large flakes and blocks. The variant we climbed leaves the corner about two-thirds up and follows a broken crack system to the top.

The route is mostly 5.6 or so; near the top in the broken cracks it gets a little harder and scarier (looser).

The route was very dirty; it is likely that it hadn't been climbed in a long time. There is also a fair amount of loose stuff (somewhat less now than before). Still, this was a reasonably fun route.

Old Protection


There is bomber pro until about half-way (medium nuts, small cams; then the flake cracks temporarily dry up leaving some marginal small nut placements you really wouldn't want to fall on. The pro in the broken crack system is kinda scary. Cams (#1 and #2 C4 Camalots) fit well but it is questionable whether or not they would hold much of a fall (there is a bomber #1 Camalot placement near the top). Take a nut tool and you'll be able to dig out some better placements near the middle.
By Lee Jensen
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hats off to Perin for doing a ton of work cleaning up this climb. It is now a really fun route, with good gear, an easy approach, and nice moves. Hand cracks, finger cracks, face moves, layback, even an optional offwidth if you would like.

Walk off to the North by down climbing some easy 4th class.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Apr 23, 2009

Fun! Thanks for all the cleaning, Perin. Lee and I climbed this route this morning and we went all the way to the top of the cliff, using up most of my 60m rope in the process. The climbing wasn't all that special near the top but it makes for a more interesting approach to Ed and Terry.
By Klimbien
From: StGeorge Orem Littlton Vegas
Apr 30, 2009

Great route, protects super well the whole way up. I wouldn't recommend the variation to the right though, I'd stick to the obvious line ~ going up the left, main crack. The large boulder precariously wedged with two small chockstones holding it in place was a source of concern but is easily avoided if you stay to the left. Down climbing the 4th class to the north was easier than it first appeared and am looking forward to returning to this route.
By builttospill
May 6, 2009

Gotta disagree that this route protects that well the entire way. A reasonable leader can find gear to trust, but it's not always easy--I wouldn't recommend it for a newer leader, despite the grade. The route is relatively clean now (thanks to those above) but the crack is still dirty. I wouldn't have wanted to fall on at least 1 or 2 of the pieces I placed. The gear on this route felt more like an alpine route than anything I've climbed in Rock Canyon or LCC.

Still fun though. Lots of different kinds of moves....a nice line too.
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Mar 2, 2010

Loved the route as an approach to ed & terry. some brush needs to be cleaned at the top to make that walk up to E&T alot easier, but i had alot of fun on this climb. gear was pretty bomber i though though. placed 3 Large nuts and two mid-large cams. The 9a variation form Perins picture felt a little harder to me then the other but if you have jamming practice the hand jams on it once you get up there are absolutely awsome. Thanks to all the people above for the work you put into this climb. The climb was pretty wet when i did it so the cracks up top were super muddy, making pro a little sketch. wait for a warmer dry day, Fun climb
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 21, 2010

The route is much easier than it looked. Lots of flakes provide good jugs and holds where the route looks steep/ hard.
I agree that the route is not SUPER clean. And it is not EASY pro the whole way. Not a good first trad lead.
Rotten rock in some sections make the pro a little sketchy. Be careful after you turn the obvious overhanging block about 1/3 up. We tossed off several large lose blocks here and it looked like only dirt, friction is keeping some of it there. The large block at the top is another example of this. It will go someday.
No chain at the top. Downclimb carefully!!!
By Light .50
Apr 6, 2012

Over the winter removed some potentially dangerous boulders and loss rock. Perin's prevoius work on this route made this job easy.

Ring anchors are now located approximately 10 feet to the right of the prominent horn. About two-thirds the way up climb right following a broken crack system or look over the horn/block, and you will see the anchors. From the anchors its a clean rap down.

Additionally, from the anchors continue climbing a short pitch, following an obvious crack. Right of the crack there is also a bolted line on this upper face. Another set of anchors are located at the top. Rap off or tred South following a climbers trail leading to I.D. Claire, and the base of Ed and Terry Wall.

This is a fun option leading to Ed and Terry Wall.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 20, 2014

Climbed this today and thought it was very high quality, despite being incredibly dirty (probably sees very few ascents). Really fun climbing, with the hand crack at the top being very fun (perfect cupped hands) but very, very gritty. Still a 3 star route, imo, at least for the area.

I used a #3 C4 and the orange metolius (both bomber) up top for the anchor. There is a set of chains to the right of the top out which you can use for a single rap to the base of the route with a 60 meter rope.