Tip-A-Canoe 

This route has been extensively cleaned since I first climbed it. The above description now reflects climbing the corner in its cleaned state. My original description is below. I haven't yet climbed the variation since it was cleaned so I don't know how the pro is, although it looks pretty good (you'll probably want something like a #4 C4).

Old Description

Old Protection

Hats off to Perin for doing a ton of work cleaning up this climb. It is now a really fun route, with good gear, an easy approach, and nice moves. Hand cracks, finger cracks, face moves, layback, even an optional offwidth if you would like.

Walk off to the North by down climbing some easy 4th class.

Fun! Thanks for all the cleaning, Perin. Lee and I climbed this route this morning and we went all the way to the top of the cliff, using up most of my 60m rope in the process. The climbing wasn't all that special near the top but it makes for a more interesting approach to Ed and Terry.

Great route, protects super well the whole way up. I wouldn't recommend the variation to the right though, I'd stick to the obvious line ~ going up the left, main crack. The large boulder precariously wedged with two small chockstones holding it in place was a source of concern but is easily avoided if you stay to the left. Down climbing the 4th class to the north was easier than it first appeared and am looking forward to returning to this route.

Gotta disagree that this route protects that well the entire way. A reasonable leader can find gear to trust, but it's not always easy--I wouldn't recommend it for a newer leader, despite the grade. The route is relatively clean now (thanks to those above) but the crack is still dirty. I wouldn't have wanted to fall on at least 1 or 2 of the pieces I placed. The gear on this route felt more like an alpine route than anything I've climbed in Rock Canyon or LCC.

Still fun though. Lots of different kinds of moves....a nice line too.

Loved the route as an approach to ed & terry. some brush needs to be cleaned at the top to make that walk up to E&T alot easier, but i had alot of fun on this climb. gear was pretty bomber i though though. placed 3 Large nuts and two mid-large cams. The 9a variation form Perins picture felt a little harder to me then the other but if you have jamming practice the hand jams on it once you get up there are absolutely awsome. Thanks to all the people above for the work you put into this climb. The climb was pretty wet when i did it so the cracks up top were super muddy, making pro a little sketch. wait for a warmer dry day, Fun climb

The route is much easier than it looked. Lots of flakes provide good jugs and holds where the route looks steep/ hard.
I agree that the route is not SUPER clean. And it is not EASY pro the whole way. Not a good first trad lead.
Rotten rock in some sections make the pro a little sketchy. Be careful after you turn the obvious overhanging block about 1/3 up. We tossed off several large lose blocks here and it looked like only dirt, friction is keeping some of it there. The large block at the top is another example of this. It will go someday.
No chain at the top. Downclimb carefully!!!

Over the winter removed some potentially dangerous boulders and loss rock. Perin's prevoius work on this route made this job easy.

Ring anchors are now located approximately 10 feet to the right of the prominent horn. About two-thirds the way up climb right following a broken crack system or look over the horn/block, and you will see the anchors. From the anchors its a clean rap down.

Additionally, from the anchors continue climbing a short pitch, following an obvious crack. Right of the crack there is also a bolted line on this upper face. Another set of anchors are located at the top. Rap off or tred South following a climbers trail leading to I.D. Claire, and the base of Ed and Terry Wall.

This is a fun option leading to Ed and Terry Wall.