Tioman is a medium-sized island off the southeast coast of Penninsular Malaysia, near Singapore. Well known for spectacular diving and abundant coral reefs, Tioman is less well known for its abundant climbing opportunities. In the south, the island is dominated by the twin towers of The Dragons Horns, although the entire island is home to various crags, boulders, seacliffs and walls of all size and dimension.
Tioman can be reached in a 2 hour boat ride from the coastal town of Mersing on the southeast coast of peninsular Malaysia after a flight in from Singapore. From Mersing a bumpy ride across the seas dividing the Island from the mainland deliver you to a small village where you need to take a slow boat to the southern end of the island to a village called Mukut.Mukut is a clean, organized little village dominated by the minaret of the local mosque.
A boat from Singapore can also be taken directly, from the WTC at the south end of the island or East coast to the Berjaya resort on Tioman. The boat runs daily and is ~4-5 hours round trip, but is on a large pleasant catamaran up the coast, with great views. The cost and time are no greater than by going to Mersing first if you are already in Singapore. The snorkeling on Tioman is great, with Monkey Bay being the best on the main shore, to be reached without a boat. A snorkel tour can be arranged easily and chaeply at your hotel or by walking down the beach.
Just to update this page, the direct ferry from Singapore to Tioman was discontinued several years ago. There used to be a number of boat types taking passengers from Mersing, the jump-off point on the Malaysian East Coast, to Tioman, but they've all been whittled down by the authorities, due to safety issues. Just 2 operators remain.
Gunung Kajang is the highest point in Tioman. We were there last week, took us 6.5 hours to reach the top and 3.5 hours to come back down. It's not a steep ascent as such, but there are plenty of obstacles to keep things interesting, including solid primary rainforest, countless leaches, huge wasps, ants and hore-flies, barbed thorns, leaf-litter traps and snakes.
Scaling a 7 meter tall monolith, covered by a gnarly and slippery root lattice. Gunung Kajang, Tioman, Malaysia.
Wondering if the community had any updates regarding the condition of fixed protection on Southern Tioman island (looking to climb here in April 2014 and will bring trad / aid rack, but can bring bolting equipment too) or links to any updated topo's ? - much appreciated - and i will update this thread post trip with any relevant details too!
Also any gear recommendations? is one 60m (or 80m) rope enough to descend?
Apologies - this post may be too late for you. (Hope you had/are having a good time). For others interested in the same question - we rebolted the stances of Waking Dream in August 2013 with a combination of Thaitanium and SS316 bolts (one each per anchor). Double 60's (or 60 + tagline) necessary to descend. (PM me if you'd like more detailed beta.)
Massive corrosion on the original bolts make us concerned for the other routes in the area. Polish Princess and Damai Sentosa are relatively new and *should* be OK ... not sure about the rest.
Busy compiling a blog entry with details - will post a link here once it's live.
(edit: July2014) Climbed Damai Sentosa last weekend. Bolts are currently OK, but starting to corrode. P4>30m, P5>40m ... so double 50's needed to descend. Saw Batu Naga bolts as we descended - massive galvanic corrosion, I wouldn't touch the route until it was rebolted.