Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sunnyside Bench
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackballed S 
Blueballed T 
Bummer T,TR 
Jamcrack T 
Lazy Bum T 
Lemon T 
Lieback Route T 
Mothballed T 
Prune T 
Pygmy Pillar T 
Raisin T 
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 
Tiny Tim T 

Tiny Tim 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Tim Fitzgerald and Bob Korte (June '66)
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Featured, low-angle granite.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a worthwhile climb on more featured stone to the right of the Lieback Route and Blackballed.

There are numerous starting variations but probably the most enjoyable is to start by climbing the Guide's Route (5.6 with 2 bolts leading to a bolted anchor 60ft up). Continue climbing through the steeper section just above the anchors and angle up and left to arrive at the single lead bolt on Tiny Tim's second pitch. From there continue up and right to a hummock ledge with a bolted rap anchor. This is all best done as a single pitch.

Above the anchor it is possible to continue to the top of Sunnyside Bench via one or two more pitches of dirty, runout, easy 5th class - but I doubt it would be worth the walk down unless you are planning on climbing something else above the Bench. From the bolted anchor at the hummock ledge 170ft up, it is possible to rappel back to the ground by making two rappels with one 60m rope.

Protection 

I only clipped bolts, but you could supplement them with some tiny gear in a few places. Bring a light rack if you plan on climbing the upper pitches.


Comments on Tiny Tim Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jun 14, 2016

Pitch 1) After passing the second bolt you can clip one of anchor bolts from the route directly to the right of Tiny Tim (Mothballed) with a long runner. Before reaching the chains there is a bomber horizontal finger crack to place a cam into.
Pitch 2) Climbing in a straight line between the belay and the first bolt will yield a couple of small stopper placements in two of the vertical seams.

Since the end is seldom told…
Pitch 3) I do not agree with the Reid guide for the remainder of the route. The first 2/3 of the pitch 3 is dirty. Climbing left off of the belay, up, then arching back right is the cleanest path. Any pro you find in this section will be tiny. The rock quality cleans up over last 1/3 of the pitch. As soon as you can see the double arches aim for the right hand side. This section is way run out, but the climbing is low angle over huge cup shaped features that are actually like steps. You can aim for the arch and protect it if you feel you need it. Belay below and just left of where the two arches meet. Belay takes #1.75 - #4 friends, maybe even larger.
Pitch 4) This is a cool pitch. Step up onto the bottom arch and pull over the top arch with solid holds. Then pick a line to the top. The rock here is amazingly solid, clean, smooth yet with friction, and colorful. The slab climbing is like topping out on domes in the high country, but over indented cups (much like sun cups in low angle snow fields) instead of knobs. Pro is available around the belay at the start, and some of the indented cups may be in-cut enough at the lip to sling a thin cord over. Belay in the grass, at a small rock band, in a single crack with #1.5 - #2 friends. Walk off to the right and up to the Sunnyside Bench trail.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!