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 ADVANCED
Sunnyside Bench
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackballed S 
Blueballed T 
Bummer T,TR 
Jamcrack T 
Lazy Bum T 
Lemon T 
Lieback Route T 
Mothballed T 
Prune T 
Pygmy Pillar T 
Raisin T 
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 
Tiny Tim T 
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Tiny Tim 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tim Fitzgerald and Bob Korte (June '66)
Page Views: 307
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Featured, low-angle granite.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a worthwhile climb on more featured stone to the right of the Lieback Route and Blackballed.

There are numerous starting variations but probably the most enjoyable is to start by climbing the Guide's Route (5.6 with 2 bolts leading to a bolted anchor 60ft up). Continue climbing through the steeper section just above the anchors and angle up and left to arrive at the single lead bolt on Tiny Tim's second pitch. From there continue up and right to a hummock ledge with a bolted rap anchor. This is all best done as a single pitch.

Above the anchor it is possible to continue to the top of Sunnyside Bench via one or two more pitches of dirty, runout, easy 5th class - but I doubt it would be worth the walk down unless you are planning on climbing something else above the Bench. From the bolted anchor at the hummock ledge 170ft up, it is possible to rappel back to the ground by making two rappels with one 60m rope.

Protection 

I only clipped bolts, but you could supplement them with some tiny gear in a few places. Bring a light rack if you plan on climbing the upper pitches.


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