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Unsorted Routes:

Tinsel Town aka BR 2? 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Robertson
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: KateC on Mar 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the new route with the roof up top, ...

Description 

This is a long, new route that follows tons of huge sandy pockets up a bulging face, and ends above a big (4ft) roof. There is a bolt on the right side of the roof if you want a "safer" lead and climb out right. The anchors are on a nice shelf directly over the roof and the rest of the climb.

Location 

This route is located between Miller Time and Cactus Carrie.

Protection 

Lots of new, shiny bolts.


Photos of Tinsel Town aka BR 2? Slideshow Add Photo
Abby leading up BR2, a filthy and dangerous yet fun route.
Abby leading up BR2, a filthy and dangerous yet fu...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 16, 2013
By Noah G
From: Alma, Co
Sep 27, 2009

This line should never have been bolted despite how appealing it looks from the ground. Dirty loose rock that will never clean up to a barely attached pillar with bolts in it, waiting to dump tons of rock on belayer and passers by. I downclimbed for fear of potentially falling on one of these bolts. Thanks to the equipper for the hard work, but no thanks.
By Rob Culbertson
May 23, 2010

This route is immediately left of Spiney Dan. Yes, there is a dangerous detached column you have to deal with about 1/2 way up and extending above the traverse left to the anchors. We were concerned enough to alert the party next door on S Dan to possible rockfall. Probably wouldn't get on it again.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 21, 2011

I believe this is called BR 2 in the D'Antonio guide. I enjoyed this, but perhaps I'm way more tolerant than others of sketchy rock. The overhanging pockety (but sandy) rock at the bottom was cool looking and fun to climb. If I was trad climbing, I would have wrapped a long sling around the semi detached pillar near the top, at the roof. We went around the roof on the right, not realizing the route was meant to climb the roof. After going around the roof on the right it felt pretty silly stepping straight left to the anchors.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You can see why someone would want to bolt this when looking up at. It just looks fun. The movement is great. The rock is pretty chossy, though. And, because the bolting spreads out as you go up (very nicely, btw), the questionable rock adds a bit of spice factor.

That pillar is cool and a little bit eerie. I hope I'm not around when it comes down...and, it's hard to imagine it will be there for a long time.

If this climb were on solid rock, it would be 4 stars.
By josh pranckun
From: Denver
Jul 22, 2011

Unique rock texture for Shelf Road, which really entices you to climb it. But there is a lot of loose rock - someone in our group pulled off a softball.
By John Maurer
Feb 19, 2012

I hesitate to rate this route in fear it may attract attention. I'd hate to encourage anyone to get on this and then have them get hurt. I really enjoyed this route - but there are sections that feel extremely dangerous. One bolt in particular is in a very large section of weak, undercut rock - better perhaps not to clip it. I would not climb this if it is crowded in the area.

All that said, this route feels like some soft Garden route. It probably is a bomb to many, but the moves and questionable nature of some sections add to its character. Not for everyone - but certainly for someone. I thought it was very entertaining. Pull gently. Three stars . . . or a bomb.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2013

Sandy, Yes! Some choss, Yes! Fun, YES! Great route. In January 2013, two bolts were added, and some cleanup to the rock took place. Should climb better than what you hear from the last comments. Pulling the roof was the crux but way fun.
By slim
Administrator
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Total pile. 9 out of 10 roadcuts have better rock quality than this thing.
By Bill Parmenter
Oct 12, 2013

A Robertson route named "Tinsel Town."
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Dec 16, 2013

Bit of a chossy and sandy fee but still super fun! I would still recommend it. I think that with the traffic lately it's cleaned up a bit, because I didn't find anything loose today or had the fear of a bolt/hold pulling. Also, there were numerous bolts and the perfect distances away, nothing to worry about. Go do it!