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Tinkerbellfusse 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: Sara Weimar on Jul 17, 2008
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Ryan Stefan at the pitch 1 belay. Also shows wher...

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.8): Climb up the short chimney to the right of Birdland, above pitch 2 of Birdland. You can belay here to ease rope drag. Step down from the top of the chimney to get into a finger crack. Build an anchor to belay at the top of this crack.

Pitch 2 (5.8R/X): Continue up the crack, as it runs out. Continue straight up the face, getting some small gear in a small alcove, before running it out on the delicate face for about 50 feet. Finish at the bolt anchors for pitch 4 of Birdland.

Descent: Same as Birdland.


Location 

This route is a variation to the right of Birdland. Climb the first two pitches of Birdland and then go right up a short chimney (optional belay point) to find the route, instead of going left on the ramp to the bolt. The route ends at the pitch 4 anchors of Birdland.


Protection 

Mostly small gear, especially for the second pitch (got a small BD C3 in before the long runout).



Photos of Tinkerbellfusse Slideshow Add Photo
Red are variations of Birdland.  Blue is Tinkerbellfusse.  Belays are in yellow.
BETA PHOTO: Red are variations of Birdland. Blue is Tinkerbel...
Looking down pitch 1 of Tinkerbellfusse.
Looking down pitch 1 of Tinkerbellfusse.
Looking down at pitch 2 of Tinkerbellfusse.
Looking down at pitch 2 of Tinkerbellfusse.
Comments on Tinkerbellfusse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sara Weimar
From: Del Rio, TX
Jul 17, 2008

If anyone climbed this line before Ryan and I did, please let me know. I emailed Jerry Handren and he was pretty sure this line had not been done before.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 17, 2008

I went about half way up this route to retrieve a rope that managed to get snagged on the rap off Birdland. Looked like a nice line.

By Jason D. Martin
Jul 22, 2008

This line has been climbed on numerous occasions by individuals who are lost on Birdland. Before Birdland was in a guidebook -- but I was guiding it all the time -- I witnessed 10+ ascents of this line.

That's not to say that the name shouldn't stay for the variation.

Thanks for posting it!

Jason

By Sara Weimar
From: Del Rio, TX
Jul 31, 2008

Jason,

Are you sure the second pitch has been climbed? I'm sure that people have done the lower crack, but it does not extend all the way to the anchors. Once you start on the second pitch, the gear runs completely out and it is all face climbing straight up to the anchors. The route is also a little further right than it looks in the picture because of the angle of the shot.

Sara

By Jason D. Martin
Aug 4, 2008

Sara,

It's definitely been done on multiple occasions. People used to really get lost up there. Many only had a weak route description with no picture, so they often ended up out in space to the right.

Jason

By Sara Weimar
From: Del Rio, TX
Sep 10, 2008

If somebody's actually got photos of them on this line, let me know and I'll change the names of the first ascentionist. Somehow, I don't think anyone "wandered" onto this line on the upper pitches and if they did, they deserve the FA. The beta photo is a bit deceiving in how close this looks to Birdland; it really isn't that close, but is more to the right than it looks in the picture. Also, the second pitch really deserves an R/X, if you miss the pro down low and if you don't go out left at all toward Birdland and protection.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 10, 2008

Sara, you would be amazed at how far off-route some people can get. On my first trip to RR, I climbed a line a hundred feet to the left of "Cat in the Hat." It took me a couple of years to realize I had not done the route I intended. I think my partner still believes we did "Cat in the Hat!"

Even though it didn't fit the description exactly, I mentally shoe-horned what I was doing onto the description. Lots of us are used to guidebook descriptions that don't fit how we look at the rocks ourselves.

Jason was one of the early people to be aware of the "Birdland" area, and he spent quite a bit of time in that area.

By Jason D. Martin
Sep 10, 2008

"The second pitch really deserves an R/X, if you miss the pro down low and if you don't go out left at all toward Birdland and protection."

This is totally in line with what the lost climbers claimed. In fact, I remember seeing one beginner/intermediate leader over there who was so scared he was almost to the point of tears because he was looking at a death fall. I stand by my original statement. It's -- without a doubt -- been climbed a number of times.

Jason

By marc rosenthal
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 10, 2008

Doug,

You said "On my first trip to RR, I climbed a line a hundred feet to the left of "Cat in the Hat." That is exactly what happened to me the first time I led it. I couldn't understand why a 5.6 pitch could feel so damn intimidating. Thing is, it looked like the logical way to go. That often happens when you are off-route.