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Tiny Tots Rock
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Tinker Toys T 

Tinker Toys 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 899
Submitted By: Steve Powell on May 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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James P. moving through the first few moves of Tin...

Description 

This is the thin crack to the left of the wider crack Dinkey Doinks. This is on the east/northeast face. A beautiful crack that eases off after the crux at the bottom.

Protection 

Takes small to medium nuts and cams. large pro for the anchor.


Photos of Tinker Toys Slideshow Add Photo
The middle of the three cracks. Photographer: Grah...
The middle of the three cracks. Photographer: Grah...
Al Sanderson on the fun steep upper bit.
Al Sanderson on the fun steep upper bit.

Comments on Tinker Toys Add Comment
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
May 5, 2003

A real nice route. only one questionable 5.10 move at the start. the rest of the route is 5.9
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The whole grade route feels like 5.9 or 5.9+, really. Lots of stoppers will go in this thing too. I sewed it up the whole way, continously anticipating a 5.10 crux move that never appeared.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 24, 2006

The move off the deck is easy - after which there is some technical stuff to the horizontal crack which in my opinion merits a 5.10b rating. A high quality route on steep rock with very nice moves.

Once again the rope can be hitched around a convenient block for a belay. Or is this a dying art?
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I climbed this again recently and found the moves getting up to the horizontal to be in the 10b range. Beyond that, fairly consistent 5.9 climbing to the top. As Chris says, looping your rope around the block works great for an anchor.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I really enjoyed this route. Any longer and it would bump up to 4 stars in my book.
By Joe Hunt
From: Long Beach, CA
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ditto what Locker said, but maybe more like the bottom of the route all the way up! Anyway, really had fun on this route.
By Drederek
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A very nice route but not a letter grade harder than Taxman.
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Oct 22, 2012

TR'd this which is worth doing if you can't lead this grade. Great climbing!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Looks somewhat improbable when looking at it dead on. From the base and quick glance up you may find that the gear, albeit small is available. Small cams & nuts which should seem obvious but found more hand size placements than I was anticipating and a perfect slot for a #2 camalot just for kicks. Gear anchor just like it's neighbors can range anywhere from 1.5-4".