This one is on the house. Begin in the corner that Sweet Back starts in, but angle up and right on easy slab to a large ledge.
From the ledge, crank up the angled crack to a block beneath the roof. A bolt protects the puzzling crux boulder problem roof. Continue up the crack and roll around the bulge to the right at a horizontal. Finish with the intimidating slab to anchors on a good stance.
TRS pulls the roof to the left of the obvious leaning splitter of Never Ending Night Train, and starts the same as for the obvious bolted Sweet Back arete.
#0.3 to #2 C4, with an extra #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, and #1. stoppers and aliens are also nice to have.
|By Eric D|
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
A cool route that climbs unique features - flakes, blocks, cracks, and a roof. The roof is great!
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 18, 2013
This is one of those routes where a little beta goes a long way. In the spirit of that the boulder problem crux turning the roof is burly and somewhat confusing during an onsight. Especially if no ones been on her in a while... I left a bomber fixed wire above the roof ( the next piece of gear after the bolt). It doesn't interfere with other TCU options or your fingerr jams, but will most likely make this section more enjoyable. I also thought that clipping a single biner on the bolt might help better position the rope for the leader, and whoever is cleaning the pitch. It would keep the rope out of the crack and away from the crux holds. A #1 Camalot in as shallow pod post crux helps you nerve up through the sequencey final face moves 5.10- (also #.4 and #.5 placement in horizontal) to the hidden anchors, above and well right of the Sweet Back anchors which are visible and off to the left. Great rock and movement through the whole crux and upper portions of the route, and I wouldn't expect a soft .11d if i were you... And though the gear can be very good, it is still a heads up lead. Goes into the much welcomed shade around 1:30. Awesome line Darren!