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Tommy's Sandbox 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 1151'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,242
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure on the Diamond MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A lesser-done Index classic with lots of variety. There are multiple 5.10 sections, with stemming, slabbing, and crack climbing, all separated by rests. From the anchor atop Slow Children, step left and stem up toward a bolt, roof, and slab. Atop the slab, a hard v-slot move gains a large left-facing corner and more stemming, leading left (with gear) to a stance beneath the large roof. Pull the bolted roof (crux?) and follow a finger and hand crack to anchors atop the lower town wall.

Adding this to the 3 pitches below makes for a great stretch of climbing with each pitch ~ 2 letter grades harder than the one before.

This pitch should get done a lot more, and it needs the traffic to keep it clean.

You can rappel from atop this pitch all the way to the ground with a single 70m by going back down each pitch. If you have a single 60m, do one short rap to rappeler's left, then a second one to the top of Slow Children, then rap Slow Children, P2 City Park, and Godzilla individually.

Location 

This takes the line above/left of the anchor atop Slow Children, and pulls a roof obviously visible from the railroad tracks.

Protection 

Bring a lot of runners and draws, ~10 or so at least.

A single set of cams to #2 and a few wires (you'd likely have these to have arrived 3pitches up) is fine.


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By Drewsky
Aug 28, 2012

This has a little of everything including slabs, corners and a roof. Definitely a nice addition above Slow Children.
By Ryan Hoover
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome pitch, definitely deserves more traffic!
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 4, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I did the FA of this with Chris Henson some time ago. dont really remember the exact year. And the name should be Tommy's Sandbox.
By Chris Mutzel
From: Seattle, Washington
Mar 31, 2016

Spot on rack beta and info on runners.

Climbed at end of March 2015 after 3 or 4 dry days. There were some sections of the slab which were wet after the left facing corner. There is also a significant amount of moss/mud on the ledge below the v-slot at the start of this corner. All of this seems to be avoidable without making the pitch much harder. The slab moves felt like the crux to me, felt similar to spineless at Private Idaho (e.g. 11a).

Has a cool alpine feeling given how you need to run the gear, you are at the top of wall, and the general decrease in steepness compared to lower pitches. Very psyched.
By Jon Todorovich
Jun 18, 2016

No reason to stop after slow children. The route deserves more traffic - its a great way to top out the wall! Only slightly more difficult than Slow Children - slightly more physical and a little more thought provoking.

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