Tricky, technical, and fairly sustained. In sum, a much better route than the eponymous and more popular cousin to the North.
My partner and I identified different cruxes, neither of which is featured in Marty's book.
Exercise care around the 6th & 7th bolts, where a fall + slack and/or inattentive belayer could deck the leader on the pillar left of the route. Next time I'd have a piece (orange or red TCU?) for the bottom of the crack.
Exercise caution using a 60 meter rope; the belayer will have to scramble up 5 feet, and the climber will have to untie and down-climb (4th class) the last 5-10 feet of the gulley. Alternatively, lower to the top of the pillar at left and rap from the anchors there.
In any case, tie a knot in the end of the rope.
Starts to the right and behind the Land Before Time pillar -- a short scramble up to the base.
11 draws. Optional gear for the crack, which you gain around or just after the 6th bolt.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 30, 2014
I climbed to the top of the Pillar via Land Before Time (5.10a), then did the rest of Timeless as a 2nd pitch (didn't know at the time that Timeless could be done as one, singular pitch). Anyhoo, the zig-zag crack on Timeless has become my new favorite stretch of rock on the Warning Signs cliff. Absolutely wild and exposed: you'll feel like you're in Yosemite, high up on some classic grade IV... except for the fact that you are clipping bolts. Super, super fun.