Timeless  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Charlie Johnson, Mike Yost - Jan. 1991, TD Submitted By:  Jonathan Howland on Jun 28, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mary Devore

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Description 

Tricky, technical, and fairly sustained. In sum, a much better route than the eponymous and more popular cousin to the North.
My partner and I identified different cruxes, neither of which is featured in Marty's book.
Exercise care around the 6th & 7th bolts, where a fall + slack and/or inattentive belayer could deck the leader on the pillar left of the route. Next time I'd have a piece (orange or red TCU?) for the bottom of the crack.
Exercise caution using a 60 meter rope; the belayer will have to scramble up 5 feet, and the climber will have to untie and down-climb (4th class) the last 5-10 feet of the gulley. Alternatively, lower to the top of the pillar at left and rap from the anchors there.
In any case, tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Location 

Starts to the right and behind the Land Before Time pillar -- a short scramble up to the base.

Protection 

11 draws. Optional gear for the crack, which you gain around or just after the 6th bolt.