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Shipwreck Wall - River Face
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Shipwreck (1st pitch only) T 
Time To Power S 
Time To Power (1st pitch only) S 
Time To Shower S 

Time To Power 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ????
Season: Most
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Nov 5, 2013

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Time to Power ascends the attractive East Ship face in between the Aggro gully and Ship Wreck gully. A wild & varied route unusual of Smith Rocks. Features everything from difficult slab climbing on flawless red stone to long moves through a pumping overhang. The crux is typical of most 5.12s at smith, near vert, on bad holds.

Other difficulties include waiting for an opportunity to climb the route, as the bottom portion of this route has become quite popular.


There's a somewhat difficult clip part way up the upper scoop. It's best just to skip it. It's best to approach this route as a single push from the ground. Be aware! A 70 meter rope will barely reach the ground.

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By Jon Rhoderick
Nov 6, 2013

FA: John Collins 1992

My two cents as I get closer to sending. It's not too hard to clip all the bolts on the headwall, try climbing to the left of the tricky bolt. A long sling on the 3rd bolt of the 2nd pitch is really helpful for clipping. Finally it is easy to clip the anchors from a good pocket, but the climb finishes naturally on a jug up and right of the anchors, adding another few cruxy moves. Overall you get many .11 sections with one 12+ crux.
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Aug 19, 2015

The reason I suggested skipping a single bolt on the headwall is that you basically have a bolt at your knees while clipping the next. Not to mention stopping mid move is somewhat awkward(I stopped to clip on my first attempt). On subsequent ascents, I've just skipped it and found it to improve flow. Id say the crux is no harder than the crux of lower heinous minus the discontinuous climbing of heinous. There's maybe a 5.11 pump crux above this section and a mid 11 crux pulling on the slab.
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