Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Shipwreck Wall - River Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Shipwreck (1st pitch only) T 
Time To Power S 
Time To Power (1st pitch only) S 
Time To Shower S 

Time To Power 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ????
Season: Most
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Nov 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Time to Power ascends the attractive East Ship face in between the Aggro gully and Ship Wreck gully. A wild & varied route unusual of Smith Rocks. Features everything from difficult slab climbing on flawless red stone to long moves through a pumping overhang. The crux is typical of most 5.12s at smith, near vert, on bad holds.

Other difficulties include waiting for an opportunity to climb the route, as the bottom portion of this route has become quite popular.

Protection 

There's a somewhat difficult clip part way up the upper scoop. It's best just to skip it. It's best to approach this route as a single push from the ground. Be aware! A 70 meter rope will barely reach the ground.


Comments on Time To Power Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Rhoderick
Nov 6, 2013

FA: John Collins 1992

My two cents as I get closer to sending. It's not too hard to clip all the bolts on the headwall, try climbing to the left of the tricky bolt. A long sling on the 3rd bolt of the 2nd pitch is really helpful for clipping. Finally it is easy to clip the anchors from a good pocket, but the climb finishes naturally on a jug up and right of the anchors, adding another few cruxy moves. Overall you get many .11 sections with one 12+ crux.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!