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Time Takes a Cigarette 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Forrest Gardner and Jack Noonan 1985
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: Br'er Rabbit on Nov 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Time Takes a Cigarette

Description 

Look up into the chasm....

Surmount some blocks and climb up into the obtuse corner. Do the handcrack thing up until the crack widens then chimney up to easy ground and prepare for the glory that awaits.

Hopefully you brought some wide gear.

You know where to go from here.....hard right for 50' of airish, underclinging to and thru a wide roof crack/chimney.

If you don't fall out of the crack taking the huge, swinging fall....gasping for breath and a bit skint.....easier ground awaits after the lip.

A .75 makes for a dandy directional.

You've eyed it from below.
This is wide school.

Time takes a cigarette....
Smoke 'em if you got 'em.


Location 

Just right of Southern Express, under the obvious roof with wide undercling crack.

Protection 

small/medium to roof...#3 and #4 camalot out the roof...0.75 Camalot directional after the lip.


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