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Time Square 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Carrie Lin Robertson
Season: spring/fall/winter
Page Views: 2,252
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Jean Aschenbrenner at the second bolt.

Description 

Eds. this is a consolidation of 2 entries for the same route.

This is one of the few beginner/intermediate climbs you are going to find at Shelf worth doing. The anchors are located on the right side of the dihedral at the top.

Per Glen Charnoski: this is a great beginner route! The route starts a bit vertical, but good edges lead to numerous ledges. The arete to the right can be used for support or the face climbed in its own right. The crux seems to be getting enough height to clip the anchors! (There is a crack to boost yourself up to it.)

Location 

This route is located on the face directly around the corner to the left of Suburbia.

Per Glen Charnoski: the route is on the left side of the arete (to the right of "Times Square" and around the corner from Necropolus). The route goes up the center of the beautiful, long slab. End on a big ledge just below the anchor near the top of the cliff. Reach up high or use the crack at left to reach the anchor.

Protection 

Per Glen Charnoski: 10 bolts. The first bolt is about 25' off the ground for some reason, so I rated it PG-13, but it could be stick clipped.


Photos of Time Square Slideshow Add Photo
5.8 is on face right of dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 is on face right of dihedral.
Allen TR'ing the clean slab of Wall Street.
Allen TR'ing the clean slab of Wall Street.
Mark on the creepy solo to the high first bolt on ...
Mark on the creepy solo to the high first bolt on ...
Sarah leading Time Square.
Sarah leading Time Square.
Time Square.
Time Square.
Karen enjoying Wall Street's easy street.
Karen enjoying Wall Street's easy street.

Comments on Time Square Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 21, 2014
By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003

FA: Carrie Robertson
By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003

The First Time This Climb Was Climbed, I Did It -While Hallin A Rope Line (To Hall A Drill Up & Retro Suburbia), With No Bolts (One Day Before I Personally Free Fell Off Top Of DoRDi) /Solo.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Time Square has seven bolts. The climbing isn't very continuous, and the bolts are placed to the right of the natural line. An OK warm-up for the harder routes in the area.
By micah stocker
Feb 14, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great beginner route. This was an awsome introduction to the climbing at Shelf Road. I highly recommend taking new climbers there, especially your girlfriend.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Personally, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginners. The bolts are run out, many of the moves in the run out sections are awkward, if you fall before clipping into the anchors there is a good chance of injury, and if you fall before clipping into the first bolt you are either going to get skewered by a dead tree or break an ankle.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2006

I agree w/ the first comment. Watch out for the hornet nest before the first clip or just skip this climb altogether. 5.8 w/o bees, 5.10 w/ bees.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This a good top-rope route for beginners but due to the crazy bolting, I wouldn't recommend it to the budding 5.8 leader. The first bolt is way up there followed very soon after an apparently later-added bolt which doesn't make too much sense and then more spacious clips after that.

At the top, instead of placing the anchors within reach from the obvious ledge, the route continues up into a short, semi-awkward corner for a couple of moves before reaching the anchors. A fall in this section would result in hitting the good ledge below. The cold shuts at the top are in dire need of replacement (especially the left one) due to too many people lowering or TRing directly through them.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is nothing to recommend about this climb. Not safe to lead for budding 5.8 leaders, not very interesting climbing, and the anchors have received less though than many Ive ever seen. Still, it does draw the crowds. Go figure.
By Rob Culbertson
May 23, 2010

If you keep right - like right on the arete- the bolt placement is perfect. the rock is nicer there and the climb feels more exciting [read exposure] as you glance down into the Suburbia alcove. The layback/stem/jam crux at the anchors offers an interesting change of pace. Fun warm-up
By richard magill
Nov 25, 2011

Dirty, chossy, and has a huge (50lb?) loose block about 2/3's the way up.
By Grant Gerhard
From: Denver, CO
Mar 7, 2012

Contrived and not great stone.
By sclair
From: SLC, Ut
May 31, 2013

Compared to the 5.8s on Menses Prow, this is a kind of brainless climb. In fact, the only part I really enjoyed was analyzing what felt wrong about the bolt placements. I did not come up with an answer, though. If you want to climb 5.8 at Shelf, go to Menses. If you want to climb on the Contest Wall, warm up on the 5.9s to the left (The Opportunist and its neighbor). They are much more fun!
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Dec 16, 2013

Didn't find any choss.... It was a good warm-up that required little thought. I say go do it!
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Certainly a much better route than some people report here. The best movement is on the right side at the arete. The bolting positions can give pause to new leaders, however. Probably a fair 2 star route.