Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Contest Wall
Evolv Royale Climbing Shoe

$88.95 25% off

$66.71

at Backcountry

6    more...
Petzl Iceflute Screw Carrier

$41.95 20% off

$33.56

at Backcountry

2    more...
C.A.M.P. Race 290 Crampons

$159.95 25% off

$119.94

at E-OMC

16    more...
Patagonia Women's Tres 3-in-1 Jacket

$479.00 50% off

$239.50

at Patagonia

48    more...
Scarpa Techno Climbing Shoes

$129.00 40% off

$76.95

at USOutdoorStr

3031    more...
Five Ten - Newton Climbing Shoe

$153.95 41% off

$89.97

at GearX

6    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
9 to 5 
Agent Orange 
Apple Bites Back, The 
Apple Jam 
Armistice (AKA The Armisist) 
Awakenings 
Bitten by a Manpris 
BR 1 
BR 2? 
Cactus Carrie 
Cactus Drop 
Cattle Prod 
Cumulocrimpus 
Curious George 
Dead Tree Crack 
Dough Boys 
Dr. Howard's Digital Exam 
Dune, The 
Energizer 
Enterprise 
Farts of Horsemen 
Gotham City 
Grand Cru 
Hide n' Seek 
High Pockets 
Jelly Bellies 
Jump for Cholla 
Knot Head 
Lime and Punishment 
Limestone Lady 
Liquid Pork 
List, The 
Little Mecca 
Little Red Badge of Courage 
Metropolis 
Miller Time 
Monster Man 
New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) 
No Place for a Gentleman  
No Place For a Lady 
No Tomorrow 
Not So Killer Bees 
Opportunist, The 
Pesko Sour 
Phase Dance 
Pocket Laureate 
Porkus Non Grata 
Primal Urge 
Regroovable 
Renaissance 
River of Rabbits 
Rodao 
Shithouse Traverse 
Short Slaughter 
Silverado 
Single Gun Theory 
Slamdance Cosmopolis 
Slipper Queen 
Spinney Dan 
Suburbia 
Taos Hum 
Time Square 
Trick-or-Treat 
Turbo Road 
Unknown right of Little Red Badge 
Vail Athletic Club 
Wall Street (Time Square?) 
You Snooze, You Lose 
Zia 
Unsorted Routes:

Time Square 

5.8

   
1,714 page views
Good page?   

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Carrie Lin Robertson
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jean Aschenbrenner at the second bolt.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route is located on the face directly around the corner to the left of Suburbia. One of the few beginner/intermediate climbs you are going to find at Shelf worth doing. The anchors are located on the right side of the dihedral at the top.


Protection 

4-6 bolts... I can't remember the exact total.



Photos of Time Square Slideshow Add Photo
5.8 is on face right of dihedral.

BETA PHOTO: 5.8 is on face right of dihedral.

Mark on the creepy solo to the high first bolt on Times Square

Mark on the creepy solo to the high first bolt on ...

Time Square.

Time Square.

Sarah leading Time Square.

Sarah leading Time Square.


Comments on Time Square Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 25, 2011
By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003

FA: Carrie Robertson

By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003

The First Time This Climb Was Climbed, I Did It -While Hallin A Rope Line (To Hall A Drill Up & Retro Suburbia), With No Bolts (One Day Before I Personally Free Fell Off Top Of DoRDi) /Solo.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.8

Time Square has seven bolts. The climbing isn't very continuous, and the bolts are placed to the right of the natural line. An OK warm-up for the harder routes in the area.

By micah stocker
Feb 14, 2004
rating: 5.9-

Great beginner route. This was an awsome introduction to the climbing at Shelf Road. I highly recommend taking new climbers there, especially your girlfriend.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 PG13

Personally, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginners. The bolts are run out, many of the moves in the run out sections are awkward, if you fall before clipping into the anchors there is a good chance of injury, and if you fall before clipping into the first bolt you are either going to get skewered by a dead tree or break an ankle.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2006

I agree w/ the first comment. Watch out for the hornet nest before the first clip or just skip this climb altogether. 5.8 w/o bees, 5.10 w/ bees.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.8

This a good top-rope route for beginners but due to the crazy bolting, I wouldn't recommend it to the budding 5.8 leader. The first bolt is way up there followed very soon after an apparently later-added bolt which doesn't make too much sense and then more spacious clips after that.

At the top, instead of placing the anchors within reach from the obvious ledge, the route continues up into a short, semi-awkward corner for a couple of moves before reaching the anchors. A fall in this section would result in hitting the good ledge below. The cold shuts at the top are in dire need of replacement (especially the left one) due to too many people lowering or TRing directly through them.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.8

There is nothing to recommend about this climb. Not safe to lead for budding 5.8 leaders, not very interesting climbing, and the anchors have received less though than many Ive ever seen. Still, it does draw the crowds. Go figure.

By Paul Carlson
From: laramie, wyoming
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.8-

Interesting bolt placement, thought provoking fall potentials, discontinuous climbing, and questionable rock in a few places....but it gets early sun and has rests aplenty. Good warmup.

By Rob Culbertson
May 23, 2010

If you keep right - like right on the arete- the bolt placement is perfect. the rock is nicer there and the climb feels more exciting [read exposure] as you glance down into the Suburbia alcove. The layback/stem/jam crux at the anchors offers an interesting change of pace. Fun warm-up

By richard magill
Nov 25, 2011

Dirty, chossy, and has a huge (50lb?) loose block about 2/3's the way up.