Time Square 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Carrie Lin Robertson |
| Submitted By: | William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Jean Aschenbrenner at the second bolt.
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Description This route is located on the face directly around the corner to the left of Suburbia. One of the few beginner/intermediate climbs you are going to find at Shelf worth doing. The anchors are located on the right side of the dihedral at the top.
Protection 4-6 bolts... I can't remember the exact total.
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 is on face right of dihedral.
| Mark on the creepy solo to the high first bolt on ...
| Time Square.
| Sarah leading Time Square.
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By Carrie Oct 3, 2003
| FA: Carrie Robertson |
By Carrie Oct 3, 2003
| The First Time This Climb Was Climbed, I Did It -While Hallin A Rope Line (To Hall A Drill Up & Retro Suburbia), With No Bolts (One Day Before I Personally Free Fell Off Top Of DoRDi) /Solo. |
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.8
| Time Square has seven bolts. The climbing isn't very continuous, and the bolts are placed to the right of the natural line. An OK warm-up for the harder routes in the area. |
By micah stocker Feb 14, 2004 rating: 5.9-
| Great beginner route. This was an awsome introduction to the climbing at Shelf Road. I highly recommend taking new climbers there, especially your girlfriend. |
By Randy Carmichael From: Boulder, CO Mar 14, 2006 rating: 5.8 PG13
| Personally, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginners. The bolts are run out, many of the moves in the run out sections are awkward, if you fall before clipping into the anchors there is a good chance of injury, and if you fall before clipping into the first bolt you are either going to get skewered by a dead tree or break an ankle. |
By Dean Cool From: Boulder, CO Oct 10, 2006
| I agree w/ the first comment. Watch out for the hornet nest before the first clip or just skip this climb altogether. 5.8 w/o bees, 5.10 w/ bees. |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 13, 2007 rating: 5.8
| This a good top-rope route for beginners but due to the crazy bolting, I wouldn't recommend it to the budding 5.8 leader. The first bolt is way up there followed very soon after an apparently later-added bolt which doesn't make too much sense and then more spacious clips after that. At the top, instead of placing the anchors within reach from the obvious ledge, the route continues up into a short, semi-awkward corner for a couple of moves before reaching the anchors. A fall in this section would result in hitting the good ledge below. The cold shuts at the top are in dire need of replacement (especially the left one) due to too many people lowering or TRing directly through them. |
By Jesse Morehouse From: CO Jun 14, 2008 rating: 5.8
| There is nothing to recommend about this climb. Not safe to lead for budding 5.8 leaders, not very interesting climbing, and the anchors have received less though than many Ive ever seen. Still, it does draw the crowds. Go figure. |
By Paul Carlson From: laramie, wyoming Nov 1, 2009 rating: 5.8-
| Interesting bolt placement, thought provoking fall potentials, discontinuous climbing, and questionable rock in a few places....but it gets early sun and has rests aplenty. Good warmup. |
By Rob Culbertson May 23, 2010
| If you keep right - like right on the arete- the bolt placement is perfect. the rock is nicer there and the climb feels more exciting [read exposure] as you glance down into the Suburbia alcove. The layback/stem/jam crux at the anchors offers an interesting change of pace. Fun warm-up |
By richard magill Nov 25, 2011
| Dirty, chossy, and has a huge (50lb?) loose block about 2/3's the way up. |
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