Time Machine 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Stuemke 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on May 26, 2007 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is an interesting challenge for those doing some one pitch cragging in the Book area. It would deserve two stars, if the rock quality was better.
The lower face is protected by two bolts. The first 5.11 crux is passing the first bolt near a good side pull. Easier climbing continues up through a finger crack, which is protected by med-lg nuts. The second committing crux comes as the crack pitches off and the feet disappear. Place a small nut and gun it to the anchors.
Make sure you backup your final small nut with a 0.75 Camalot about 3 feet below. I had two pieces pull when I whipped off the crux.
Location This route is located on the small buttress to the right of the Bookmark Pinnacle. You probably passed it a number of times when walking off the Bookmark.
Protection 2 bolts on lower face, 1 set of nuts (sm-lg), and a 0.75/1 Camalot.
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