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Millbrook
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Time Being 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Romano & Hardie Truesdale - 1980
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Mar 27, 2009

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Description 

No stars in the guidebooks? What an oversight... but perhaps understandable because of the first pitch. Begin at the right end of the section of wall that is home to Nectar Vector, Manifest Destiny, and New Frontier. A guide is essential for determining the location of the route, most easily identified by it's path through the roofs on the second pitch.

P1: It's hard to describe exactly where this one starts, but it generally weaves up and right through lichenous rock to a cruxy white corner, and then steps up and right again, past a small tree, to a belay on a pillar-like feature. This pitch protects with a #2 and #3 Camalot in a horizontal, but the white corner is 30' above this and unprotectable. A 60'+ fall onto ledgey rock is X in my book. 5.9, 120'.

P2: Hopefully your partner led that one so you get this one. Head up and left off the belay into the roofs. There's a hard move about 20' out pulling over the small roof, then good stances as the route underclings out left to a flake in the big roof. Pull through here with heel hooks and exposure. Above this step into a long, left-facing, left-leaning corner and take this to the rim. This corner is the easiest way to ID the climb from the ground.


Protection 

Double set of cams in the finger sizes, single set up to #3 Camalot.



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