Tilted Mitten 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Doug Redosh on P1 c.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is an interesting climb on the Lower Owls, with a very short approach. Good for those who enjoy (or want to get some mileage on) wide cracks and chimneys, but at a moderate grade. The mitten is a large, leaning block midway up the right side of the Lower Owls. Take the approach trail to the Lower Twin Owls trail. The route starts a little uphill from the lowest point of the cliff.
P1-3 possibilities: a) take a blackened inset, with a finger crack, which leads to a short squeeze chimney, and continue more easily to a ledge below a wide crack (5.9); b) take a hand crack just left, and continue up an easy groove to the same belay (5.7); c) start further left in the easy groove.
P2-climb the wide crack, go up the right side of the mitten, and tunnel through the roof at its top; belay just above (5.8).
P3-walk over right, then climb a square cut, right-leaning chimney with good hand-sized protection. Turn the [weird] roof at its top, and belay beneath Twin Owls (5.7).
Climb a route on that rock, or descend right and scramble around to the base.
Protection Standard rack to a #4 Friend; two to sew it up.
Doug Redosh on P3. Use that left hand crack to ma...
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Mitten summit, near the top of P2.
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Inside the chimney on P3.
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| Comments on Tilted Mitten |
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 11, 2007
| P2 is quite fun. For cluckers like me, a #4.5 Camalot & 2 #4 Camalots (old style) are nice. Near the top of P2, there is a rope pinching crack. A red Alien above it on the right can help keep the rope out of the trouble. Addendum: wires, singles to #0.75 + doubles #1 to #4 Camalot + #4.5 Camalot for cluckers. |
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2008
| In my opinion, this is a great climb - all the pitches are fun, the climbing is interesting and varied. The chimney on the last pitch is amazing. We did the 7 variation on the first pitch and enjoyed it. |
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 25, 2011
| For the middle start, a single rack to #4 C4 and dbl in 2-3 range is plenty of gear. I didn't find a need for a #5 C4. The middle first pitch is kind of crappy after the first 20ft, but P2/3 are worth doing once. |
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