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Tilman's Arete
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Tilman's Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Karen Stoltz, Cindy Dohl 1988
Page Views: 3,251
Submitted By: E thatcher on Jul 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Description 

This route climbs the prominent right angling arete as visible from Rt 73.

The second pitch offers fun exposed arete climbing with a magnificent backdrop.

There are many moderate variations to the first pitch that start in the corner to the left of the arete, and use the cracks to traverse over to the fixed anchor atop pitch 1.

The pitches can easily be linked into 1 pitch.

Pitch 1: Climb a crack to the arete and angle left to a 2 bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge. (5.3)

Pitch2: Climb the obvious arete above. you will pass a bolt at about mid height. to 1 3 bolt anchor/rappel station. (5.7)

The route can be rapped in one rappel with two ropes, or two rappels with 1 rope.



Location 

The approach trail deposits you at a clearing in a prominent corner. Tilmans arete starts approximately 15' to the right of the corner in a crack that is wider at the base.

Protection 

A single rack will be more then adequate. Both anchors are bolted.


Photos of Tilman's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Myself on the final moves.
Myself on the final moves.
Paul Deagle - Tileman's Arete looking down second belay
Paul Deagle - Tileman's Arete looking down second ...
Belay point (spacious with 3 tired looking bolts) and the upper pitch.
Belay point (spacious with 3 tired looking bolts) ...
John following Tillman's - Peak colors
John following Tillman's - Peak colors
Looking up at first pitch,there are a variety of ways up ....
Looking up at first pitch,there are a variety of w...
Ben Michaels rapping off the 2nd pitch overlooking Chapel Pond
Ben Michaels rapping off the 2nd pitch overlooking...

Comments on Tilman's Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2014
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Climbed this route today for the first time. Perfect position on impeccable stone, though fairly runout above the bolt on the 2nd pitch with iffy pro to the anchor. Though an absolute classic, I would not recommend this route for the budding 5.7 leader due to how marginal the gear is.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I second Chris PG/R, not for the budding 5.7 leader.
By Mike McLean
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The P1 5.6 variation is nice as well. It starts in the corner on the left, up 10 or so feet, then step onto the horizontal, then up the ovbious right leaning crack. You join the arrête from the top of the crack. Gear was good.
By Jamis Bruening
Aug 13, 2011

Climbed this yesterday and I would say PG, if you use everything that is there. Excellent climb, a very fun slabby arete.
By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

I agree with Mike, the 5.6 variation is the way to go on the first pitch. Blow the crux just before the piece after the bolt and you'll probably bounce off the belay ledge. Gear up to .5 and 4 PBR's.
By Dave Schultz
From: Saratoga Springs, New York
May 3, 2012

Climbed this one today, and found the gear above the bolt on P2 to be perfectly adequate. There is a bomber nut placement above the bolt, and then you can get two small cams (.3 and .4 BD) before reaching the belay.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I love this route! Excellent climbing with great views. Fun face climbing then break onto the arete and enjoy some great holds.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jul 25, 2012

P2 is a pretty "heady" lead. The crux is protected by a bolt but there are still some 5.6-ish moves above on somewhat runout terrain. I thought the pro above the bolt was also a bit marginal.
By garyjutah
Aug 3, 2012

All there awesome route. 5.6 start is a must.
By Chris Mp
From: Toronto, ON
Oct 9, 2012

Excellent climb in a very scenic location.
I found that M LaViolette Jr.'s post was spot on... "Blow the crux just before the piece after the bolt and you'll probably bounce off the belay ledge".
Variation cracks on P1 (on climber's left) remain wet for a day or two after rain.
By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

To start the climb, one can climb directly up the middle of the face, though the moves are hard 5.7, maybe easy 5.8, and there is no gear.
By Dominic Rickicki
Apr 22, 2014

Great climb to end a day with, the position is great. Condition report though, on sunday 4/20/14 there was snow at the base built all the way up to the beginning of the variation crack… that's like ten feet for people familiar with the route. we were able to do the regular 5.3 start just beware you have to do some snow trudging to get to the route.