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Shagg Crag
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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Mushial
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
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The clip after the crux. My right hand is on the s...

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Tightrope climbs the line of bolts just left of Ginseng. The crux, coming about two thirds of the way up, is quite a memorable one. Despite my efforts to find alternate beta, the move boils down to a huge dyno. With a very thin left crimp, you set up and throw and hit a sloper at full extension. Holding the outward swing is the most difficult part. It's just so easy to let go of that small crimp, but that's really the only thing holding you in.

If the climbing leading up to the crux was trivial, I'd call this an average route. Since the moves before the crux are still hard, maybe about 12a, and since the crux move is so spectacular, I call this a tough and very fulfilling 12d.


9 bolts

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By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Mar 21, 2009

OOOOOH....and its sooooooo tempting to grab that draw!!!!!!

By Mike Veazey
From: Exeter, NH
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

FA: Eric Mushial

By Mike Lambert
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Height dependent but quality.