Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak 
Bowels of the Owls, The 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) 
Crack of Fear 
East Ridge 
Fist Fight 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems 
Organ Pipes 
Parachute Pants 
Peaches and Cream 
Pin Route 
Rather Fight Than Switch 
Senseless Meaning 
Sunset Arete 
Thimbleberry Jam 
Thin Crack 
Tiger's Tooth 
Tighter Squeeze 
Tilted Mitten 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct 
True American Pinch 
West Chimney 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) 
Wolf's Tooth 
Unsorted Routes:

Tighter Squeeze 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Mayrose, O'Conner,1963
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 1, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Tighter Squeeze is the offwidth on the lower right...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


Tighter Squeeze is the striking chimney in a left-facing corner to the right of Twister and is clearly visible from the approach trail. Rated 5.7 in my old Kimball Lumpy guides, it felt like 5.9 to me following my partner Chuck Graves, except for the pain in my knees, which made it mid-10. Gear is surprisingly good for a chimney climb. This route should be on "The road to 'The road to the Crack of Fear'". See the comments under Twister for The road to the COF.

Approach: From the Crack of Fear area, scramble up and right along the base of the crag passing Twister until you get to the high point and a flat bench. The obvious chimney is Tighter Squeeze. The thin, horizontal crack running out left of the chimney with a couple of bolts and a pin is the 11d Last Dance, formerly known as the A2 East Wing. If you're near the East Ridge, walk left a short distance past a steep face to the bench and the start of the route.

The climb: hand jamming and chimneying lead to a ledge from which you can experience the massive bowels of this chimney. Above is a constriction. Chimney up inside to place a high big cam. We used the #6 Friend here. Drop back down and chimney sideways to the outside edge. Make a move up until you can stem out to some grooves with your back against the edge of the chimney. You can place another big cam here. Up and back into the chimney which is pretty tight "frogging" (as Chuck called it) with good gear in a thin crack. I learned here that jugs don't help much in tight chimneys since you can't lean back to use your feet. You have to ignore the jugs and keep your hands low to push up. At some point here I moved right and out of the chimney rather than persist in abusing myself. The final exciting moves swing around a chockstone to the top.

Getting down: You can continue to the top as for East Ridge, or you can scrample right and slightly up to good slings and rings at the top of the Turn, Turn, Turn chimney, just left of Rather Fight Than Switch. Since these slings are not permanent anchors, be prepared to go to the top or to rig your own anchor.


Single set small nuts to #3 Camalot. 2 big cams--we used a #6 Friend and a #4 Camalot.

Photos of Tighter Squeeze Slideshow Add Photo
Alan, the traveling dinosaur, enjoying the view from the belay ledge.
Alan, the traveling dinosaur, enjoying the view fr...
Comments on Tighter Squeeze Add Comment
Show which comments
By PanCakeFace
Feb 13, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Our first offwidth climb. Felt SO much harder than 5.9 (let alone 5.8 in the guidebook!) Was a very fulfilling feeling to finely sit on top of this route in one piece.