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Gallatin Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bowling for Buicks S 
Dagger, The T 
First Best T 
Generation X T,S 
Guide Route T 
India Ink T,S 
Orange Crack T 
Soft in the Middle T,S 
Spare Tire T,S 
Standard Route T 
Ten Pin S 
Thing In Between T 
Tigger T 
Top Heavy T,S 

Tigger 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Leo, Chuck Rose, 1967 FFA: JIm Kanzler, Pat Callis, 1975
Page Views: 2,101
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Tigger

Description 


This tigger is nothing like the one you grew up with....

This Tigger is mean, strenuous and demanding. Technical and tricky, this route makes for a great, all out adventure. Good climbing and good gear are just enough to keep you from breaking. While most people only climb the first pitch, the second makes for a nice option when dodging or passing crowds - go for it!

P1: Technical and awkward this route starts off hard with a few difficult moves right off the ground. Fire through this spot and catch a rest below the roof. Move out and right into space gaining the thin crack at its worst. Layback, finger-lock, or mash your way up 10 more feet of brutality (crux) to a slightly easier and slowly widening crack. Catch a good rest in a corner and move up and left over the arete to a two bolt anchor. 40' (5.10a/b)

P2: Continue up and right off the belay aiming for a right facing wall with a short hand crack. Sticking to the corner, continue climbing up to an awkward ledge and traverse left to a low-grade, but passable slab, stay inside a shallow corner and top out on a large platform. Build a belay. 100' (5.9+)

P2-a: Continue up and left through a dirty break in the roof, follow this fracture up to the awkward ledge and fire the slab to the platform. 100' (5.9+)

P3: Finish on either of the last pitches of The Standard Route

Descent: Locate an anchor on the backside of the tower, rappel, rappel, then walk off.

Location 


Tigger starts in the middle on the front face of the Gallatin Tower. It sits between Thing in Between and The Orange Crack. Its the finger tip crack that runs along a right facing corner.

Protection 


A single, standard rack and stoppers, slings and draws.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 31, 2012
By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Aug 27, 2010

Although most disagree, I think this is a much better route than First Best. Also, instead of going left to the anchors, you can continue up through the wide crack in the left facing dihedral which leads to the Orange Crack 1st pitch anchor. This makes it about a 100ft pitch.
By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Sep 30, 2010

I agree first best is not so sustained
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

this one is like climbing 5.10 at devil's tower for about 6 feet in the dihedral...awesome!
By Kurt Prond
From: Bozeman, MT
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree, this route is way better than First Best. Just did it again today and I think it is one of the best finger cracks around the Bozeman area. High Quality Stone and sustained. Anywhere else it would be 5.11! Read the description again-it does not describe a 5.10-
Also, I used my 00 master cam through my .5 camalot. Bring all your small stuff.
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

maybe i have this one wired, but all the locks feel pretty positive for me...10b seems reasonable considering the nature of climbing and grades in the canyon. the description abobve may be a little intimidating, as the gear is readilly available and bomber...not all that heady.
By Kurt Prond
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Yeah, you are probably right, I think I had just gotten back from red rocks...haha. Everything there is a little soft. I would still say 10a is a bit sandbagged though...
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

for sure, stout climb...as my previous post ponders...this one is great training for other sandbagged 5.10 climbing at places like devils tower....cant wait to return to montana and battle with the tigger again!
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 9, 2012

Tiny digits are a big help on this one and could see the 10a/b rating being fair. It felt more like 10+/11- to me, but I have big hands so had to rely on dual sidepulls instead. Stellar route no matter what! Get on it!
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Sustained? There's maybe one 5.10 move on this... don't get so locked into the crack. Search for the ample face features and high step through the crux! Excellent climb.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 31, 2012

Semantics. To a sport climber, no, this wouldn't be sustained at all. I found both pitches to be mentally sustained and could never really let my guard down. I had climbed this a long, long time ago, added it here in 2010. At the time I was a very timid, Gallatin noob. It was quite memorable, and still is visually, very fresh in my head.

From now on, maybe I should let the really strong climbers write the descriptions? To me comments like that just seem like an opportunity for people to puff their chests. Anyway, its changed to be more ambiguous.

High step through the crux? Sounds like cheating. Later!
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Cheating with good technique maybe :). While it may be semantics as you say, I think the grading feature and route discussions are the coolest, most useful features of Mountain Project.

I think your description is great and does justice to one of Bozeman's best climbs. It was also quite a memorable pitch for me as it was one of my first 5.10 trad leads almost 10 years ago! I'm not trying to trash talk, just throwing another opinion out there.