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(1) School Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Above the Groove S 
Blackface Arete S 
Bull King Dihedral T 
Choose Your Size T 
Disco Fistcrack T 
Fight T,S 
In And Out Of The Groove S 
Nowhere Man S 
Oh No! S 
Oh! S 
Piranha  T,S 
Reincarnation S 
Right Disco Crack T 
Seaface T 
Staircase T 
Stepover T,S 
Stone Z S 
Surprise Crack T 
Tiger's Tooth S 
Triple Cruxes S 
V-Groove S 
Warm-up Route S 

Tiger's Tooth 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: BrianWS on Jan 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Brian Soong on "Tiger's Tooth" (5.11b sp...

Description 

Scramble up 20 feet to the ledge at the base of Surprise Crack. Clip in, pull long moves up and over the tricky roof, and follow the bolts the double bolt anchor. If you bring a bit of gear, you can continue up over a buldge to the anchors for Surprise Crack or even top off and appreciate the ocean vista.

Location 

On the east face of School Gate. Shares the beginning ledge with Surprise Crack, just to the left of Staircase. Instead of going up the crack, crank out the left side of the roof and follow the bolt line up the thin face to the anchor at a ledge 20 feet below the top.

Protection 

Bolts (2006). Bring long runners for the first two bolts.

To continue the extension up Surprise Crack (5.9) bring some cams no larger than #1.


Comments on Tiger's Tooth Add Comment
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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 6, 2013

This route should be bolted all the way up to the Surprise Crack ledge. The final bolts would be far to the left of the trad line. The current anchor is two bolts staggered by about a foot... totally stupid.
By BrianWS
Nov 14, 2013

No need for additional bolts, there's plenty of pro after (and before!) the anchors. Climbing to the Surprise Crack anchors is in the 5.9 to easy 5.10 range and well protected.

I remember the funky anchor bolting - did you end up adding links and chain?
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 15, 2013

I ended up putting two links on one and four on the other, but they are still uneven. There are many other anchors that are bolted unevenly throughout Long Dong, and I have no idea why.

As for the logic of bolting it to the ledge: there is no reason for the route to end in the middle of the wall, there is a convenient ledge above, but the Surprise anchor cannot be used for top-roping this route. There is (almost) no precedent for mixed climbing at Long Dong, although this would be a perfect candidate.

However, there is still no consensus about development ethics here, and so anything done without the consent of the "proper authorities" could stir up a real shit storm...
By BrianWS
Nov 15, 2013

Haha, ain't it true... Ever wonder why there are so few trad routes over 5.10+ at LD?

If you check out Yum Yum's book, many of the sport climbs that are now fully bolted were originally mixed. Lots of FA's in the 80's and 90's were done on gear with minimal bolting, including lots of the harder lines around the clock tower area. There was a precedent for mixed climbing, just not a very vocal or strongly defended one.

A large number of the older FAs were done by foreigners (Koreans, Euros, etc), many of whom eventually left. This surely prevented the shitstorm from brewing after their routes were both retro and over bolted.