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Scramble up 20 feet to the ledge at the base of Surprise Crack. Clip in, pull long moves up and over the tricky roof, and follow the bolts the double bolt anchor. If you bring a bit of gear, you can continue up over a buldge to the anchors for Surprise Crack or even top off and appreciate the ocean vista.
On the east face of School Gate. Shares the beginning ledge with Surprise Crack, just to the left of Staircase. Instead of going up the crack, crank out the left side of the roof and follow the bolt line up the thin face to the anchor at a ledge 20 feet below the top.
Bolts. Bring long runners for the first two bolts. To continue the extension up Surprise Crack (5.9) bring some cams no larger than #1.
In the Summer and Fall, BE CAREFUL of insects. The cracks and roofs of the School Gate area make ideal nesting spots for bees and wasps.
|Comments on Tiger's Tooth
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 6, 2013
This route should be bolted all the way up to the Surprise Crack ledge. The final bolts would be far to the left of the trad line. The current anchor is two bolts staggered by about a foot... totally stupid.