Tigers in Lipstick
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BETA PHOTO: The line takes the right-leaning finger crack past...
Although this is in Gillett's new guide, he describes this line as better than it looks, my eye was immediately drawn to this short line. Follow a leaning finger crack into a dihedral and up over some grovelly stone. The crack itself is surprisingly clean and the size is consistent (this route could easily be led with a single set of nuts and some runners). The crux of this route lay in the region of the dihedral where the right face is relatively clean and the only good purchase for feet can be found in the crack itself. Belay at the top - for the belay, you may need some larger pieces (but a cordelette slung around a rock of tree should be sufficient).
To descend, wade down the gully on the right through the detrius (boots would be good as the dead material is sufficiently deep that you will sink into it).
This line is located immediately across from Longmont Resevoir on the left side of the road about 0.25 mi from the gate (just past the dam).
You can probably get away with a single set of nuts with some slings, but I took smaller cams also (although I used primarily nuts as this crack eats 'em up). A couple of cams in the #0.5 to #1 range (BD Camalot sized) would be good for a belay, but a simple cordilette is sufficient.
BETA PHOTO: From the base.
Oct 26, 2012
Fun, aesthetic line. Worth the walk if you are in the area. Definitely eats up nuts and small cams.